CABBAGE

WEB SITE DIY ORGANIC GARDEN

Article compliments of The University of Illinois Extension

Cabbage is a hardy vegetable that grows especially well in fertile soils. There are various shades of green available, as well as red or purple types. Head shape varies from the standard round to flattened or pointed. Most varieties have smooth leaves, but the Savoy types have crinkly textured leaves.
Cabbage is easy to grow if you select suitable varieties and practice proper culture and insect management. Always regarded as a good source of vitamins, cabbage recently has been shown to have disease-preventive properties as well.

Recommended Varieties

Green cabbage is grown more often than the red or Savoy types, but red cabbage has become increasingly popular for color in salads and cooked dishes. The Savoy varieties are grown for slaw and salads. Varieties that mature later usually grow larger heads and are more suitable for making sauerkraut than the early varieties. All the varieties listed here are resistant to fusarium wilt ("yellows") unless otherwise indicated. All are hybrid varieties unless marked OP, for open-pollinated variety.
Green Cabbage
Cheers (75 days to harvest; solid round heads; tolerant to black rot and thrips)
Early Jersey Wakefield (OP - 63 days; pointed heads; stands well; resists splitting)
King Cole (74 days; large; firm; extremely uniform heads)
Savoy Cabbage pictured left

Savoy King (85 days to harvest; dark, green color; very uniform)
Savoy Queen (88 days; 5 pounds; deep green color; good heat tolerance)
Red Cabbage
Red Meteor (75 days to harvest; firm; good for all seasons)
Ruby Ball (71 days; 4 pounds; slow to burst; resists both cold and heat)

When To Plant

Transplant early cabbage soon enough that it matures before the heat of summer. Many varieties are available and two or three varieties with different maturities can provide harvest over a long period. Hardened plants are tolerant of frosts and can be planted among the earliest of cool-season garden vegetables. Cabbage is easily transplanted from either bare-root or cell-pack-grown plants. Late cabbage must be started during the heat of mid-summer, but it develops its main head during the cooling weather of fall. It may be transplanted or seeded directly in the garden. In summer, if possible, place seed flats or seedbeds where some protection from the sun is available, either natural or artificial. Try especially hard during this season to transplant on cloudy, overcast or rainy days for minimizing shock from the direct sun of summer.

Spacing & Depth

Space plants 12 to 24 inches apart in the row, depending upon the variety and the size of head desired. The closer the spacing, the smaller the heads. Early varieties are usually planted 12 inches apart in all directions. Early varieties produce 1 to 3 pound heads and later varieties produce 4 to 8 pound heads. Sow cabbage seed 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Keep the seeds moist and thin or transplant the seedlings to the desired spacing. The plants removed may be transplanted to another row or flat.

Care

Use starter fertilizer when transplanting and side-dress with nitrogen fertilizer when the plants are half grown. Cultivate shallowly to keep down weeds. Ample soil moisture is necessary throughout the growing season to produce good cabbage. Irrigation is especially important in fall plantings to help the young plants withstand the intense sunlight and heat of summer and to supply the developing heads with sufficient water to develop quickly.

Harvesting

Cabbage can be harvested anytime after the heads form. For highest yield, cut the cabbage heads when they are solid (firm to hand pressure) but before they crack or split. When heads are mature, a sudden heavy rain may cause heads to crack or split wide open. The exposed internal tissue soon becomes unusable. Harvest and salvage split heads as soon as possible after they are discovered.
In addition to harvesting the mature heads of the cabbage planted in the spring, you can harvest a later crop of small heads (cabbage sprouts). These sprouts develop on the stumps of the cut stems. Cut as close to the lower surface of the head as possible, leaving the loose outer leaves intact. Buds that grow in the axils of these leaves (the angle between the base of the leaf and the stem above it) later form sprouts. The sprouts develop to 2 to 4 inches in diameter and should be picked when firm. Continue control of cabbage worms and other pests. If this control cannot be maintained, remove and destroy or compost the stumps, because they serve as a breeding ground for diseases and insect pests.

Common Problems

Yellow or fusarium wilt is a relatively common disease that causes the leaves of plants to wilt and die. The first sign of the disease is yellowing and browning of the lower leaves. The plants are stunted before wilting occurs. Grow yellows-resistant (YR) or yellows-tolerant varieties. Most modern hybrids have this tolerance or resistance bred into them.
Blackleg and black rot are two diseases that cause severe losses. The plants may be stunted, turn yellow and die. Blackleg is named for the black cankers on the stem. The taproot often rots away. Black rot can be recognized by large, V-shaped, yellow-to-brown areas in the leaves, starting at the leaf edge. The veins turn black. Soft rot usually follows black-rot infection.
Control is essentially the same for blackleg and black rot. Both diseases are spread by seed, transplants and insects. Buy seed that has been hot-water treated to kill the disease organisms. Do not buy transplants that are wilted, are an unhealthy shade of green, or have black spots on the stems or leaves.
When you find diseased plants in the garden, collect the leaves, stems and tops; and burn or dispose of them. Do not put diseased plants into the compost pile. Avoid cultural practices (crowding, overwatering, planting in poorly drained soil and inadequate insect control) that support the disease organisms of black rot and blackleg. If possible, grow black-rot-resistant varieties.

Questions & Answers

Q. What can I do to prevent my cabbage heads from splitting?
A. Splitting is caused by the pressure of excessive water taken up after the heads are solid. Cutting the roots (spading on two sides of the plant) or breaking the roots (lifting and twisting the head to one side) can often reduce excessive splitting or bursting, but it also damages the plant and requires that the head be harvested relatively soon.
Q. What causes cabbage to develop seedstalks rather than solid heads?
A. Cabbage plants "bolt" (form premature seedstalks) when they are exposed to low temperatures (35 to 45 degrees F) for extended periods. Such chilling may happen if plants are set out too early or if an unseasonable blast of cold assaults the garden. After the plants have stems as large as a pencil, they are subject to this "cold conditioning," that initiates the flowering response.
Q. What is flowering cabbage?
A. Nonheading varieties of cabbage (similar to flowering kale) have been developed for ornamental uses. They have colorful white, pink or red rosettes of leaves surrounded by green or purple outer leaves. Most colorful during cool fall weather, they should be started in early summer to midsummer and set out with fall and winter plantings of regular, heading varieties of cabbage. Flowering cabbage (and flowering kale) are edible as well as ornamental.
Q. Why do butterflies fly around my cabbage plants?
A. Those butterflies (white or brown) are probably the moths of cabbage worms. They lay eggs on the plants. The eggs hatch into the worms that cause considerable damage unless controlled. Most control strategies are aimed at the developing larvae rather than the mature moths themselves.
Q. What causes large, lumpy swellings of my cabbage roots? The plants also are stunted.
A. Swellings and distorted roots on stunted, wilted plants may be symptoms of clubroot disease. This disease is caused by a fungus that remains in the garden soils for many years once it becomes established. It is spread by movement of infested soil and infected transplants. Other related cole crops (like broccoli and cauliflower) also may become infected. If you suspect that you have clubroot disease in your garden, ask your local Extension office for help. If, in fact, you have clubroot in a location, destroy infected plant parts (including the roots) and for at least 4 years avoid planting any member of the cabbage family there, including radishes, turnips and ornamental relatives of cabbage.

Selection & Storage

Harvest large, unsplit heads of green cabbage. Look for tight, heavy heads, free of insects and decay. Fresh, uncut heads of cabbage can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Cover loosely with a plastic bag or use perforated bags. Do not wash cabbage before storing, the extra moisture will hasten deterioration.
Green cabbage — Green cabbage is sometimes called Dutch White. The outer leaves are dark green and the inner leaves are smooth and pale to medium green. If you plan to eat the cabbage raw, use within a few days. Cabbage that you plan to cook can be stored in the refrigerator for about two weeks.
Savoy cabbage — Crinkly, with waves of blue-green leaves, Savoy cabbage is a beautiful sight growing in the garden. These thin, richly flavored leaves are ideal served raw in salads or cooked. Cooked Savoys do not have the strong sulfur odor of green cabbage. Savoy only keep for about 4 days in the refrigerator so buy it when you plan to use it.
Red cabbage — This variety is usually smaller and denser than heads of green cabbage. The flavor of red cabbage is slightly peppery and it is very susceptible to color change. Cook red cabbage with vinegar (or other acidic ingredient) or it will turn an ugly blue-gray color. Always use stainless steel knives and cookware when preparing red cabbage to prevent color changes.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits

There are literally hundred of varieties of cabbage. The most popular varieties in the United States are green cabbage and bok choy. As with broccoli, cabbage is a cruciferous vegetable and may reduce the risk of some forms of cancer including colorectal cancers. Cabbage is also high in beta-carotene, vitamin C and fiber. Other substantial nutrients in a half cup cooked cabbage include the following.
Nutrition Facts (1/2 cup cooked green cabbage)
Calories 16
Dietary fiber 2.9 grams
Carbohydrates 3.6 mg
Vitamin C 18.2 mg

Cool weather crop. "How To" Organic Gardening: Beets

"How To" Organic Gardening: Beets: BEETS WEB SITE DIY ORGANIC GARDEN Compliments of The University of Illinois Extension Table beet (also known as garden beet, blood turn...

BEETS

WEB SITE DIY ORGANIC GARDEN

Compliments of The University of Illinois Extension Table beet (also known as garden beet, blood turnip or red beet) is a popular garden vegetable throughout the United States. Beet tops are an excellent source of vitamin A and the roots are a good source of vitamin C. The tops are cooked or served fresh as greens and the roots may be pickled for salads or cooked whole, then sliced or diced. Beet juice is a basic ingredient of Russian borscht. The garden beet is closely related to Swiss chard, sugar beet and mangel. Mangels (also known as stock beets) are considered too coarse for human consumption but are grown for stock feed.

Recommended Varieties

Garden (open pollinated)
Crosby's Egyptian (56 days to harvest; uniform, sweet, dark red roots; semi-globe to heart shaped; glossy, bright green tops, excellent for greens)
Detroit Dark Red (58 days; tender, round, dark red roots) pictured to the right.

Early Wonder (52 days; flattened globe shape; dark red, sweet and tender)
Lutz Green Leaf (70 days; an heirloom winter-keeper type; purplish red exterior, deep red interior; large, glossy green tops, excellent for greens; roots stay tender even when large; stores extremely well)Pictured left
Ruby Queen (60 days; AAS winner; excellent quality; early; round, tender, sweet, fine-grained, attractive, uniform roots)
Sangria (56 days; ideal globe shape, even in crowded rows; deep red; good greens when young)
Sweetheart (58 days; extra-sweet, round, tasty roots; tops good for greens)
Garden (hybrid)
Avenger (57 days; uniform, vigorous; smooth, medium, globe- shaped red roots; glossy tops, good for greens)
Big Red (55 days, best late-season producer, excellent flavor and yield)
Gladiator (48 days; juicy, fine-grained flesh, deep red throughout; holds color without fading when cooked; uniform shape, size and flavor; excellent for canning)
Pacemaker (50 days; early; short tops, excellent-quality roots)
Red Ace (53 days; early; sweet, red roots; resists zoning in hot weather; vigorous grower)
Warrior (57 days; highly uniform, globe shape develops quickly, holds quality as roots grow large; dark red color inside and out; tops fringed with red)
Mini
Little Ball (50 days; very uniform, small size; good shape; very tender; grows quickly to form smooth roots)
Little Mini Ball (54 days; roots the size of a silver dollar at maturity; round; canned whole; short tops good for greens)
Specialty
Cylindra (60 days; long, cylindrical; all slices of equal diameter)
di Chioggia (50 days; Italian heirloom; rounded, candy red exterior; raw interior banded red and white; sweet, mellow flavor; bright green tops, mild and tasty; germinates strongly and matures quickly; does not get woody with age)
Golden (55 days; buttery color, sweet mild flavor) pictured right

Green Top Bunching (65 days; round, bright red roots, good internal color in cool weather; tops superior for greens).

When To Plant

Beets are fairly frost hardy and can be planted in the garden 30 days before the frost-free date for your area. Although beets grow well during warm weather, the seedlings are established more easily under cool, moist conditions. Start successive plantings at 3 to 4 week intervals until midsummer for a continuous supply of fresh, tender, young beets. Irrigation assures germination and establishment of the later plantings.

Spacing & Depth

The beet "seed" is actually a cluster of seeds in a dried fruit. Several seedlings may grow from each fruit. Some seed companies are now singulating the seed for precision planting, by dividing the fruit. Plant seeds about 1/2 inch deep and one inch apart. Allow 12 to 18 inches between rows. Poor stands are often the result of planting too deeply or the soil's crusting after a heavy rain. The seedlings may emerge over a relatively long period of time, making a stand of different sizes and ages of seedlings. Some gardeners find that placing a board over the row after planting preserves the soil moisture and eliminates crusting from hard rains. The board must be removed as soon as the first seedling starts to emerge.
Hand thinning is almost always necessary. The seedlings should be thinned to 1 to 3 inches apart. If thinning is delayed until the plants are 3 inches tall, those removed may be cooked greens, similar to spinach. Some cooks leave the small root (usually about the size of a marble) attached to the greens.
Though it is seldom done, beets actually may be transplanted. Some care must be taken to get the roots oriented vertically so that the beets can develop properly.

Care

Frequent shallow cultivation is important because beets compete poorly with weeds, especially when small. Because beets have extremely shallow roots, hand weeding and early, frequent and shallow cultivation are the most effective methods of controlling weeds in the rows. Deep cultivation after the weeds are large damages the beet roots. Like most root crops, beets need a fertile soil (especially high in potassium) for vigorous growth. Keep your beet plants uniformly supplied with moisture for best performance.

Harvesting

Beets can be harvested whenever they grow to the desired size. About 60 days are required for beets to reach 1 1/2 inches in diameter, the size often used for cooking, pickling or canning as whole beets. Beets enlarge rapidly to 3 inches with adequate moisture and space. With most varieties, beets larger than 3 inches may become tough and fibrous. Beets may be stored in a polyethylene bag in a refrigerator for several weeks. Beets also may be stored in outdoor pits if the beets are dug before the ground freezes in the fall. Cut off the tops of the beets one inch above the roots. Beets store best at 32°F and 95 percent humidity. Do not allow them to freeze.

Questions & Answers

Q. What causes the beets in my garden to develop tops but no roots?
A. The most frequent cause for beet plants failing to develop roots is overcrowding from improper thinning.
Q. What varieties should I grow for beet greens?
A. A special vigorously growing variety, Green Top Bunching, is excellent for producing greens. Crosby Egyptian and Early Wonder also can be used for greens. Planting the seeds 1/2 inch apart without thinning produces an abundance of greens. Swiss chard is a heavy producer of greens very similar to beet greens.

Selection & Storage

Beets can be harvested at any stage of development, from the thinning to the fully mature stage at about 2 inches in diameter. The "thinnings" are beets that have been pulled from the ground prematurely to make room for others when rows are overcrowded. Thinnings can be eaten raw, tops included, in salads or roasted. Beets are high in natural sugar and roasting brings out the natural sweetness.
Beets vary in color and shape based on variety. The most common is the deep maroon globe-shaped beet. There is an Italian variety which has pink and white rings upon slicing. The golden globe is globe-shaped and orange in color then it turns golden yellow when cooked. Another variety is white and still another is pink.
When harvesting beets, separate the green tops from the roots leaving an inch of stem on the beet. Beets larger than 3 inches in diameter are often fibrous and woody. Beet greens are packed with nutritional value but must be prepared separately. Upon storage the greens will quickly draw the moisture from the root greatly reducing flavor and the beets will become shriveled. Leave one inch stem and the taproot intact to retain moisture and nutrients. After separating, beets store well for about a week in perforated plastic bags in the refrigerator. Use beets while they are still firm and fresh.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits

Beets are particularly rich in folate. Folate and folic acid have been found to prevent neural-tube birth defects and aid in the fight against heart disease and anemia. Beets are also high in fiber, both soluble and insoluble. Insoluble fiber helps to keep your intestinal track running smoothly and soluble fiber helps to keep your blood sugar and blood cholesterol levels on track.
Nutrition Facts (1 cup cooked, sliced)
Calories 31
Protein 1.5 grams
Carbohydrate 8.5 grams
Dietary Fiber 1.5 grams
Potassium 259 mg
Phosphorus 32 mg
Folate 53.2 mcg

SWEET CORN

WEB SITE: DIY ORGANIC GARDEN

Compliments of Urban Extension, Illinois

Sweet corn is a warm-season vegetable that can be grown easily in any garden with sufficient light, fertility, growing season and space. It is especially popular with home gardeners because it tastes appreciably better when it is harvested and eaten fresh from the garden. Successive plantings can yield continual harvests from early summer until frost if the weather cooperates.
Sweet corn may be divided into three distinct types according to genetic background: normal sugary (SU), sugary enhancer (SE) and supersweet (Sh2).
Standard sweet corn varieties contain a "sugary (SU) gene" that is responsible for the sweetness and creamy texture of the kernels. SUs are best suited to being picked, husked and eaten within a very short time. In the home garden, this is sometimes possible but not always practical. The old adage was "start the water boiling, run to the patch, pick and husk the corn, run back to the pot, cook the corn, and eat or process immediately."
Sugary enhancer hybrids contain the sugary enhancer (SE) gene, that significantly raises the sugar content above standard SUs while retaining the tenderness and creamy texture of standard varieties. The taste, tenderness and texture are outstanding. SEs are the gourmet corns of choice for home gardeners because they contain the best qualities of both SU and Sh2 types. Fresh from the garden, virtually all current SE releases have eating quality that is superior to all other types. No isolation from standard SUs is necessary.
Supersweet hybrids contain the shrunken -2 gene and have a higher sugar content than the standard SU varieties. The kernels of the extra-sweet varieties have a crispy, tough-skinned texture and contain low amounts of the water-soluble polysaccharides that impart the creamy texture and "corny" flavor to other sweet corn varieties. Although the lack of creamy texture is not especially noticeable in fresh corn on the cob, it affects the quality of frozen and canned corn, as does the toughness of the seed coat. Unless corn must be stored, shipped or mechanically harvested, SEs are superior in eating quality to Sh2s.
Supersweets (Sh2) should be isolated from any other type of corn tasseling at the same time to ensure sweetness and tenderness. Their pollen is weak and easily supplanted by other types, which causes the kernel to revert to a form with the toughness and starchiness of field corn. Because corn is wind-pollinated, this isolation distance can be 500 feet or more, especially downwind.

Recommended Varieties

Most of the varieties listed here (like nearly all sweet corn sold today) are hybrids. They are arranged by genetic type and kernel color. The maturity dates are relative because the actual number of days to harvest varies from year to year and location to location.
Standard (SU)

Yellow	Harvest	Ear Size	Comments
Earlivee	58 days	7"-14 rows	extra early
Golden Cross Bantam	85 days	8"-12 to 14 rows	old home-garden variety
Iochief	86 days	8"-14 to 16 rows	popular midseason variety
Jubilee	82 days	8"-16 rows	high yield; deep, narrow kernels; excellent for canning I tried this jubilee last year 2012 and did not like the quality, maybe it need more water as we had a drought.
NK-199	84 days	8"-18 to 20 rows	extremely thick, attractive ears; silks easily removed
Seneca Horizon	65 days	7"-16 to 18 rows	excellent quality
Sundance	69 days	1/2"-14 rows	best cold-soil tolerance, early season vigor; handsome ears

White	Harvest	Ear Size	Comments
Pearl White	75 days	7 to 8"-12 to 16 rows	good cool-soil and drought tolerance; easy snapping
Platinum Lady	86 days	8 1/2"-14 rows	delicate flavor; tender kernels; slender, elegant ears
Silver Queen	92 days	8 to 9"-14 to 16 rows	dark green flag leaves, attractive ears; standard, high-quality white corn; resistant to bacterial wilt and Helminthosporium

Bicolor	Harvest	Ear Size	Comments
BiQueen	92 days	8 to 9"-16 rows	like a bicolor Silver Queen
Butter & Sugar	75 days	7"-14 rows	popular for home garden
Honey & Cream	80 days	7"-12 to 14 rows	sweet, tender; long, tight husks
Quickie	64 days	7 1/2"-12 rows	earliest SU bicolor
Sugar & Gold	67 days	6 1/2"-10 to 12 rows	husk green, with reddish tinge; excellent quality; prefers cooler-season areas

Sugary Extender (SE)

	Harvest	Ear Size	Comments
Bodacious	72 days	8"-16 to 18 rows	superior flavor, holding ability; ears snap easily; prefers warm soil
Champ	68 days	8"-16 to 18 rows	excellent eating quality, tip cover
Incredible	83 days	8 to 9"-18 rows	big, flavorful ears; excellent appearance, yield
Kandy Korn	89 days	8"-14 to 16 rows	purplish red-streaked ear flags, excellent quality, long shelf life
Maple Sweet	70 days	7 1/2"-14 to 16 rows	excellent flavor, easy snapping
Merlin	84 days	9"-20 to 22 rows	superior flavor, ear size, disease tolerance; easy snapping
Miracle	84 days	9 1/2"-16 to 18 rows	good holding quality; large, tender, attractive, tasty ears
Precocious	66 days	7"-12 to 14 rows	very early; excellent eating, good tipfill
Spring Treat	67 days	7"-14 rows	easy snapping, straight rows of kernels
Sugar Buns	72 days	7 1/2"-14 rows	excellent flavor; attractive, relatively small ears; deep kernels
Terminator	83 days	9"-20 rows	large ears, superior disease resistance
Tuxedo	75 days	7 1/2"-16 to 20 rows	excellent early vigor; good tipfill, husk cover; excellent eating quality; tolerant to Stewart’s wilt, and smut

White	Harvest	Ear Size	Comments
Alpine	79 days	8"-16 rows	widely adapted; excellent yield; cool-soil tolerance; attractive ear
Argent	86 days	8 to 9"-16 rows	good cold-soil vigor; tolerant to Stewart’s wilt; like a white Incredible
Avalanche	78 days	8"-16 rows	excellent eating; good ear appearance
Cotton Candy	72 days	7 to 8"-16 to 18	extended harvest; reddish green stalks
Divinity	78 days	8"-16 rows	excellent flavor, tenderness; snow white color; excellent tip cover; tolerant to drought, Stewart’s wilt
Pristine	76 days	8 to 9"-16 rows	terrific eating quality, tolerant to Stewart’s wilt
Seneca Starshine	71 days	7 to 8"-16 rows	blocky ears, with pure white kernels; excellent tenderness, flavor, appearance; prefers 50°F or higher soil temperature for germination
Seneca White Knight	74 days	8 to 9"-16 rows	high quality; attractive ears; great taste
Snowbelle	79 days	7 to 8"-14 to 16 rows	creamy texture; pretty, compact ears
Spring Snow	65 days	7 to 8"-12 rows	excellent husk cover; very early; attractive ears; very tender kernels; compact plant
Sugar Snow	71 days	8 to 9"-16 rows	extremely sweet, snow white kernels; good cold-soil tolerance
Telstar	79 days	8"-16 rows	vigorous; dark green flag leaves; tasty; attractive ear
Ambrosia	75 days	8"-16 rows	good spring vigor; fairly large, tasty ears; tolerant to Stewart’s wilt
Calico Belle	79 days	8"-16 to 18 rows	high yield; attractive; delicious taste; good disease tolerance
D’Artagnan	71 days	8"-16 rows	superior quality in an early SE bicolor
Diamonds & Gold	79 days	8"-18 rows	sweet, tender; good tipfill; attractive dark green ears
Double Delight	85 days	9"-16 rows	large, tasty ears; dark green husk; like a bicolor Incredible
Double Gem	74 days	8 to 9"-16 to 18 rows	excellent eating quality; blocky ears; usually double ears on stalks
Kiss ‘N Tell	68 days	7 to 8"-14 to 16 rows	two ears per stalk; good tipfill
Lancelot	80 days	8"-16 to 18 rows	vigorous, stress-tolerant plant; good yields; high quality ears under adverse conditions
Medley	73 days	8"-16 rows	dark green flags; good tip cover; tolerant to Stewart’s wilt
Peaches & Cream	83 days	8"-16 to 18 rows	tasty, poplar home-garden variety; vigorous plant; good ear protection
Seneca Brave	73 days	8"-18 to 20 rows	husky, excellent quality ears; strong plants
Seneca Dawn	69 days	7 to 8"-14 to 16 rows	excellent early bicolor; good vigor, eating quality

Supersweet (Sh2)

Yellow	Harvest	Ear Size	Comments
ChallengerCrisp ‘N Sweet	85 days	9"-18 rows	high yield; excellent disease resistance; good germination, seedling vigor
Early Xtra Sweet	70 days	8"-16 rows	like the original, but earlier
Excel	82 days	8 1/2" - 16 rows	exceptionally high yield, easy to harvest
Illini Gold	79 days	8 1/2"-16 rows	midseason supersweet
Illini Xtra Sweet	85 days	8"-14 to 16 rows	the original SH2 supersweet hybrid
Jubilee Supersweet	83 days	9"-18 rows	excellent home garden supersweet
Showcase	83 days	8"	large ear on short plant, outstanding eating quality

White	Harvest	Ear Size	Comments
Aspen	83 days	8 to 9"-16 rows	large, attractive ears; high eating quality
Camelot	86 days	8"-18 to 20 rows	clean, sturdy plants; excellent quality, holding traits
How Sweet It Is	85 days	8"-16 rows	All-America Selection winner, sensitive to cold soil, holds quality well
Pegasus	85 days	8 1/2"-18 rows	good cold soil germination, vigor
Treasure	83 days	8 1/2"-18 rows	good vigor, seedling emergence

Bicolor	Harvest	Ear size	Comments
Aloha	82 days	9"-16 rows	excellent appearance
Dazzle	82 days	8"-16 to 18 rows	good looking ear; good disease resistance; creamy texture
Honey ‘N Pearl	78 days	8 1/2"-16 rows	1988 All-America Selection winner, stands well, excellent quality
Hudson	83 days	8"-18 rows	smooth, well-filled ears; superior eating quality, tenderness
Phenomenal	85 days	8 1/2"-16 rows	excellent eating quality, beautiful ears
Radiance	73 days	8"-16 to 18 rows	excellent seedling emergence, plant vigor

When to Plant

Sweet corn requires warm soil for germination (above 55°F for standard sweet corn varieties and about 65°F for supersweet varieties). Early plantings of standard sweet corn should be made at, or just before, the mean frost-free date unless you use special soil-warming protection such as clear polyethylene mulch film.
For a continuous supply of sweet corn throughout the summer, plant an early variety, a second early variety and a main-crop variety in the first planting. For example, you may wish to select Sundance (69 days) for the first early variety, Tuxedo (75 days) for the second early variety and Incredible (83 days) for the main-crop variety. Make a second planting and successive plantings of your favorite main-crop or late variety when three to four leaves have appeared on the seedlings in the previous planting. Plantings can be made as late as the first week of July.
Open-Pollinated (SU)

Yellow	Harvest	Ear size	Comments
Ashworth	69 days	6 to 7" ears, 12 rows	good cold soil germination; good flavor for an early type
Golden Bantam	82 days	6 to 7"ears, 10 to 14 rows	rich corn flavor, sweet, tender

White	Harvest	Ear size	Comments
Country Gentleman	96 days	7" ears, kernels not in rows	very tender, shoe-peg type; drought resistant
Stowell’s Evergreen	100 days	9"ears, 18 to 20 rows	big, juicy, white kernels; ripen over long period
Trucker’s Favorite	95 days	8 to 9" ears, 14 rows	delicious white kernels, high yields

Bicolor	Harvest	Ear size	Comments
Double Standard	73 days	7"ears, 12 to 14 rows	first bicolor open-pollinated type; good cold soil germination good flavor, tenderness; traditional corn taste

Black	Harvest	Ear size	Comments
Black Aztec	75 days	7"ears, 8 to 10 rows	vigorous drought tolerant; sweet white kernels in roasting ear stage, dark blue-black at maturity; good for blue corn meal

Spacing & Depth

Plant the kernels (seeds) 1/2 inch deep in cool, moist soils and 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep in warm, dry soils. Space the kernels 9 to 12 inches apart in the row. Plant two or more rows of each variety side by side to ensure good pollination and ear development. Allow 30 to 36 inches between rows.
All sweet corns should be protected from possible cross-pollination by other types of corn (field, pop or flint). If you plant supersweet or synergistic sweet corn varieties, plan your garden arrangement and planting schedule so as to prevent cross-pollination between these varieties and with any other corn, including nonSh2 sweet corns. Supersweet varieties pollinated by standard sweet corn, popcorn or field corn do not develop a high sugar content and are starchy. Cross-pollination between yellow and white sweet corn varieties of the same type affects only the appearance of the white corn, not the eating quality.

Care

Cultivate shallowly to control weeds. Chemical herbicides are not recommended for home gardens. Although corn is a warm-weather crop, lack of water at critical periods can seriously reduce quality and yield. If rainfall is deficient, irrigate thoroughly during emergence of the tassels, silking and maturation of the ears.
Hot, droughty conditions during pollination result in missing kernels, small ears and poor development of the tips of the ears. Side-dress nitrogen fertilizer when the plants are 12 to 18 inches tall.
Some sweet corn varieties produce more side shoots or "suckers" than others. Removing these side shoots is time consuming and does not improve yields.

Harvesting

Each cornstalk should produce at least one large ear. Under good growing conditions (correct spacing; freedom from weeds, insects and disease; and adequate moisture and fertility), many varieties produce a second ear. This second ear is usually smaller and develops later than the first ear.
Sweet corn ears should be picked during the "milk stage" when the kernels are fully formed but not fully mature. This stage occurs about 20 days after the appearance of the first silk strands. The kernels are smooth and plump and the juice in the kernel appears milky when punctured with a thumbnail. Sweet corn remains in the milk stage less than a week. As harvest time approaches, check frequently to make sure that the kernels do not become too mature and doughy. Other signs that indicate when the corn is ready for harvest are drying and browning of the silks, fullness of the tip kernels and firmness of the unhusked ears.
To harvest, snap off the ears by hand with a quick, firm, downward push, twist and pull. The ears should be eaten, processed or refrigerated as soon as possible. At summer temperatures, the sugar in sweet corn quickly decreases and the starch increases.
Cut or pull out the cornstalks immediately after harvest and put them in a compost pile. Cut the stalks in one foot lengths or shred them to hasten decay.

Common Problems

Corn earworms are a problem in sweet corn every year. Earlier plantings are not badly infested in areas where the pest does not overwinter, but later harvests usually have severe earworm damage unless timely control measures are followed. Corn earworms deposit eggs on the developing silks or on the leaves near the ear. The tiny caterpillars follow the silks down into the ear, where they feed on the tip. Only one corn earworm will be found per ear because the caterpillars are cannibalistic, with the largest devouring any others present. Once the worm is inside the protective husk covering, there is no effective control. Anything that restricts the worm-such as tightening the tip of the husk with a rubber band or clothespin after the silk appears, or inserting mineral oil (1/2 medicine dropperful) in the silk tube-helps to decrease the damage.
Corn rootworm beetles may cause extensive silk damage that interferes with pollination. Later plantings usually suffer the greatest damage, especially where field corn is grown. Beetles multiply in early plantings of field corn, mature and migrate to plantings of young, tender sweet corn. Silk and the young, tender, green leaves are preferred feeding sites. If infestation is sufficient to remove silk before pollination, cobs develop without a full set of kernels. Control measures must be taken as the silk emerges.
European corn borers damage stalks, tassels and ears. As their name indicates, corn borers bore into the plant; and the stalks break over when damage is severe. Corn borers also may bore into the cob and be found after cooking. A suggested insecticide can be applied at 5 day intervals, beginning when eggs hatch in June. Spray applications for earworms usually give adequate control of corn borers.
Flea beetles often attack early in the spring as the corn plants emerge through the soil. Flea beetles can be quite damaging when numerous and they may carry Stewart's bacterial wilt disease.
Stewart's wilt is a bacterial disease spread by the flea beetle. This disease causes yellow streaks in the leaves, stunting and death of young plants of susceptible varieties. The disease occurs more frequently in the southern states and is not severe after cold winters or when resistant varieties are planted. If possible, plant varieties with good resistance.
Smut is caused by a fungus that invades the kernels. It develops as a swollen black pustule (gall) in the ear and sometimes infects the tassel. Some sweet corn varieties are more tolerant to smut than others. Smut occurs most frequently on white varieties and is often severe when extremely dry or hot weather occurs just before and during tasseling. Remove and destroy smut galls while they are moist and firm. Do not discard these galls in or near the garden. Place in the garbage or burn them. The smut is not poisonous, but it is unpleasant to handle. Break off the infected part of the ear. The remainder is suitable for eating.
The immature smut fungus or "maize mushroom" is highly prized in Mexican cooking. Harvest when the fungus is expanded, but before it becomes black and dried out. The time generally is about 2 to 3 days before the sweet corn reaches peak eating quality.

Questions & Answers

Q. How long does it take sweet corn to develop from the first appearance of silks to harvest?
A. About 5 days are required for complete pollination after the first silks appear. Harvest begins about 20 days after first silking.
Q. The germination of my Illini Xtra Sweet is low. How can I get a better stand?
A. The seeds of supersweet varieties are shrunken and do not germinate readily in cold, wet soil. Do not plant too early in the spring. Wait until the soil is warm, preferably 65°F. Sow the seed more thickly and thin if necessary. Fungicide seed treatments may also be helpful.
Q. Why don't my sweet corn ears fill out to the tips?
A. Several conditions can cause poor kernel development at the tip of the ear such as dry weather during silking and pollination; planting too close; poor fertility, lack of potassium; and poor natural pollination. These conditions may be overcome by watering in dry weather; planting at recommended spacing (9 to 12 inches in the row); proper fertilization; and planting short rows in blocks of two or more for more complete pollination.
Q. What is the best way to grow early corn?
A. Choose an early maturing variety, plant early and shallowly (about 1/2 inch deep), and cover the row with clear polyethylene film. Use 1 or 2 mil film 3 feet wide and cover the edges and ends to warm the soil around the seeds. The small plants can be left under the plastic for 2 to 4 weeks. Remove the film, or cut slits and carefully pull the plants through before the weather becomes too hot. It is wise to experiment with this technique on a small scale first. Unseasonable heat can quickly cook and kill young seedlings under clear plastic.
Q. How can I keep raccoons out of my sweet corn?
A. It is virtually impossible to keep raccoons out of garden, although many methods are employed. The most successful seems to be an electric fence made with two wires, one about 4 inches above ground level and the other at 12 inches. The fence must be operating well in advance of the time that the corn approaches maturity. Raccoons prefer to eat sweet corn in the early milk stage, just before it is ready to harvest.

Selection & Storage

Corn is a European word meaning kernel. The corn plant is native American in origin and Illinois is corn country. Driving through the state, you will see endless fields of sweet corn, feed corn, and popcorn. Small plot gardeners know that corn takes up a lot of space, it is greedy for soil nutrients, prone to weeds and disease, destroyed by small animals, wind and frost. So why do we go through all the trouble of growing corn? Because no corn is as fresh and sweet as the corn you grow yourself.
The period of peak freshness for sweet corn is measured in minutes not hours or days. The best corn is simply the freshest corn. Proper timing for harvest is crucial to the quality of sweet corn. Harvest sweet corn when the ears are full and blunt at the tip. The husks should be tightly folded and green. Using your thumb nail, poke an end kernel. It should squirt forth milky white sap. Underripe corn will contain a watery liquid; overripe corn will have a tough skinned kernel with doughy interiors. Also look at the silk, it should be turning brown and dry on the end.
Storing sweet corn for long periods of time will destroy it. The sugar quickly turns to starch, losing flavor, quality and most of all sweetness. If you must store sweet corn, use perforated plastic bags and get it into the refrigerator as soon as possible. Warm temperatures hasten the conversion process. Try to use the corn within 1 to 2 days and do not husk until just prior to cooking.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits

Sweet corn is high in fiber, niacin, folate and some vitamin A. Folate has been found to prevent neural-tube birth defects and current research suggests that it helps to reduce the risk of heart disease and stroke. Fiber, of course, helps to keep the intestinal track running smoothly.
Nutrition Facts (Serving size: 1 ear yellow sweet corn )
Calories 83.16
Protein 2.56 grams
Carbohydrates 19.3 grams
Dietary Fiber 2.15 grams
Potassium 191.73 mg
Vitamin A 167 IU
Niacin 1.24 mg
Folate 35.73 mcg

"How To" Organic Gardening: CANTALOUPE

"How To" Organic Gardening: CANTALOUPE: MUSKMELON or CANTALOUPE  WEB SITE: DIY ORGANIC GARDEN Compliment of Urbanext Illinois education Muskmelon, also known as cantaloupe,...

CANTALOUPE

MUSKMELON or CANTALOUPE 

WEB SITE: DIY ORGANIC GARDEN

Compliment of Urbanext Illinois education

Muskmelon, also known as cantaloupe, is a tender, heat-loving vegetable. Most varieties of the muskmelon have a musk smell; thus the name muskmelon. Muskmelon originated in India and were cultivated by settlers in the 1600's.

Recommended Varieties

All varieties are hybrids unless designated OP (for open-pollinated).
Orange-Fleshed:
Ambrosia (86 days to harvest, very sweet flesh)
Burpee Hybrid (85 days, standard eastern sutured melon)
Bush Star (88 days; 2 pounds; bush-type plant for limited space)
Earlisweet (68 days; very early; 2 to 3 pounds, good sweet flavor, firm flesh)
Gold Star (87 days, resistant to fusarium wilt)
Harper Hybrid (86 days, resistant to alternaria blight, fusarium wilt, mosaic)
Harvest Queen (OP-90 days, resistant to fusarium wilt)
Iroquois (OP-85 days, resistant to fusarium, very tasty)
Pulsar (80 days; heavily netted; tolerant to powdery mildew, fusarium)
Rising Star (84 days, resistant to fusarium race 2)
Saticoy (86 days; resistant to fusarium wilt, powdery mildew)
Supermarket (88 days; resistant to fusarium wilt, powdery mildew)
Superstar (86 days; resistant to fusarium race 2; large; fine flavor)
Green-Fleshed:
Jenny Lind (OP-75 days, heirloom; medium to small, flat melons, with protruding section at blossom end; sweet flesh)
Passport (73 days, luscious green flesh)
Rocky Sweet (80 days; thick, green, sweet flesh)
Sweet Dream (79 days; delicious, sweet, flavorful)
Hybrid Honeydew-Type:
Early Dew (85 days, creamy yellow rind, good flavor)
Honey Brew (90 days; high yield; strong, disease-resistant vines)
Limelight (96 days; 7 to 8 pounds; thick, juicy, sweet flesh)
Morning Dew (96 days; largest honeydew-type; 10 to 12 pounds; thick, sweet flesh)
Morning Ice (84 days; resistant to powdery mildew, fusarium race 2)
Venus (88 days; light netting over smooth, golden rind; thick, juicy, aromatic flesh)
Other Specialty Melons:
Casaba Golden Beauty (OP-110 days; 7 to 8 pounds; white, spicy-sweet flesh)
Early Crenshaw (90 days)
Honeyshaw (85 days, salmon pink flesh, delicious)
Marygold (92 days; casaba type; yellow, wrinkled skin with white flesh)
When to Plant Muskmelons may be directly seeded or started as transplants. If the weather and soil are not warm and the soil moisture level moderate, the seeds do not germinate and the plants do not grow. Plant after the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed and dried.
Gardeners in northern climates or other short-season areas who want early production may need to use transplants. To increase earliness, start seed for transplants 3 to 4 weeks before planting time. Because muskmelons do not transplant well if the roots are disturbed, you should start seed in individual containers. Proper temperatures for germinating and growing the transplants are very important. Do not allow transplants to become too large before planting in the garden or stunting and crop delays may result. Sterilized media should be used for starting seed to prevent damping-off and other diseases of seeds and seedlings.

Spacing & Depth

Plant seeds one inch deep and thin the seedlings 18 to 24 inches apart or the equivalent (two plants every 36 inches or three plants every 48 inches in the hill system). Space rows at least 5 feet apart.

Care

Fertile soils usually grow a fine crop of muskmelons with normal maintenance-fertilizer application plus one side-dress application of high-nitrogen fertilizer when the plants begin to vine. Muskmelons benefit especially from the incorporation of well-rotted manure before planting and also appreciate high potassium. All melons respond favorably to mulching with black plastic, especially early in the season. The mulch can be installed when the soil is in good planting condition anytime from a few days to 2 or 3 weeks before planting. Make holes every 2 or 3 feet to plant seed or transplants through the plastic. Use starter fertilizer to help transplants get established. Floating row covers also can be used to advantage over early season melon transplants. These covers exclude the worst of the cold and also early season insect invaders. Covers need not be removed until plants start to flower unless extremely hot weather threatens.
Muskmelons suffer from extremes in soil moisture (too much rain or an extended drought). Irrigation is recommended in case of drought, especially when the vines are growing and the fruits are developing. Trickle irrigation systems used with black plastic mulch work extremely well. Muskmelons ripen to the highest quality when the vines remain healthy throughout the harvest period, when temperatures are warm but not excessively high and when the weather is comparatively dry at the time of maturity.

Harvesting

Good eating quality depends upon the texture of the melons and the development of sugars from proper ripening on the vines. When muskmelons are ripe, the rind changes from a green to tan or yellow between the netting. They should be picked when the stem separates easily from the vine near the point of attachment ("half-slip" or "full-slip" stages of development). At these stages, there will be a crack near the point of attachment. Do not pick too early because the quality will not be as high as that of vine-ripened melons; sugars continue to be stored in the developing melons up to the moment the stem separates. Once picked, muskmelons soften but do not sweeten further.
Harvest early in the day after the plants are dry and be careful not to damage the vines. Pick every other day at the beginning of the season and go over the patch every day at peak season. Especially in dry seasons, wildlife and insects such as picnic beetles quickly attack the sweet, juicy, ripening and softening fruit.
Honeydew and crenshaw melons are cut off the vine after they turn completely yellow. Their stems do not "slip" at maturity. These melons continue to improve (become soft and mellow) if kept at room temperature for a few days. When they are completely ripe, the blossom end is slightly soft to pressure.

Common Problems

Control cucumber beetles. They damage muskmelons and spread bacterial wilt by feeding on the plants. When possible, plant varieties that are resistant to fusarium wilt and leaf diseases such as powdery mildew and alternaria blight.

Questions & Answers

Q. Why do the first blossoms drop off my muskmelon plants?
A. The first flowers to appear on the vines are male, and they drop naturally. The female flowers, which open later, have a swelling at the base that forms the fruit. After bees pollinate these female flowers, the fruit develops.
Q. What causes poor (sparse) fruit set and low yields?
A. The failure for female flowers to set and develop melons can result from lack of proper pollination by bees; cool, wet weather (which also slows bee activity); and planting too close together, resulting in a dense, heavy growth of leaves (which also can suppress effective bee activity).
Q. How can I grow muskmelons in a small garden?
A. Muskmelon plants can be trained to a fence or trellis. Soon after the fruits begin to enlarge, they should be supported with mesh bags tied to the supporting structures or their weight may damage the vines.
Q. Do muskmelons cross-pollinate with other vine crops?
A. No. Muskmelons do not cross-pollinate with cucumbers, watermelons, squash or pumpkins. Different varieties of muskmelons cross-pollinate readily, but this cross-pollination is not evident unless seeds are saved and planted the following year. Cross-pollination does not make melons bitter.
Q. What causes poor flavor and lack of sweetness or fruits with smooth rinds?
A. Poor soil fertility (especially low potassium), cool temperatures, wet or cloudy weather, choosing a poorly adapted variety, loss of leaves by disease or picking the melons before they are ripe can all contribute to poor quality.