Tuesday, February 12, 2013

ORGANIC FARMS

ORGANIC FARMS
More and more existing Farmers and “new” Farmers are going Organic.  TheUtterback Farm
advantages they are finding to switch from the recent “traditional” ways of farming by adding pesticides and chemical soil amendments are proving to be ineffective and costly.  Many Agricultural State institutions are starting to adopt more “green” methods of farming which is sustainable, cheaper and growing more nutritional foods.  Farmers are finding that purchasing increasingly larger machines, adding more chemicals to improve soil are only costing money and putting them out of business instead of increasing their business.  Plus with the more costly ways of “past” farming the owners (-Farmers) are obligated to the large Corporations for their living which makes farming dependent NOT independent which is the way it was prior to chemical additives.

DO YOU RUN, OWN OR KNOW OF AN ORGANIC FARM?  TELL US ABOUT IT!
 Recent traditions are just that RECENT.  Chemical additives to feed, grain and ground were introduced to farming only in the last 100 years.  Although referred to as the Industrial Revolution the “switch” to industrial farming was slow and it was only the last 50 years that farming turned “chemical” more than natural (after WWII).  This “chemical” turn required Farmers to purchase more and more “outside” materials to produce good crops (or so they were convinced by chemical manufacturers the crop were better).  Larger machinery the would “do it all” were costly and agreements were made by Farmers to co-op not only with other Farmers but to co-op with “industry” to sustain production on their farms.
 A vicious cycle of industry taking over the small farms and growing into an industry controlled by CORPORATIONS only interested in the “bottom line” and not in the production of nutritious products for the buying public.

DO YOU RUN, OWN OR KNOW OF AN ORGANIC FARM?  TELL US ABOUT IT!
 “The identification of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus (referred to by the acronym NPK) as critical factors in plant growth led to the manufacture of synthetic fertilizers, making possible more intensive types of agriculture. The discovery of vitamins and their role in animal nutrition, in the first two decades of the 20th century, led to vitamin supplements, which in the 1920s allowed certain livestock to be raised indoors, reducing their exposure to adverse natural elements. The discovery of antibiotics and vaccines facilitated raising livestock in concentrated, controlled animal feed operations by reducing diseases caused by crowding. Chemicals developed for use in World War II gave rise to synthetic pesticides. Developments in shipping networks and technology have made long-distance distribution of agricultural produce feasible.” Source Wikipedia 
 “Agricultural production across the world doubled four times between 1820 and 1975[1] to feed a global population of one billion human beings in 1800 and 6.5 billion in 2002.[2] During the same period, the number of people involved in farming dropped as the process became more automated.” Source Wikipedia 
 Farming went “inside” with pigs, and cows forced to live on concrete floors, laying hens cooped up in cages and fed chemically processed food to produce more eggs, boiler chickens fed chemically enhanced foods living in unlighted shelters growing chicken breast so large the chickens can no longer stand upright on their own legs.  What once took 3 months to grow now takes 1 month.  The AG business gets fat on consumer money while the consumer gets fat on chemically enhanced food, destroying the good health of a nation and the world.
 Maybe, just maybe farming is taking another Revolutionary turn with the advent of the NEW farmer.  What will they call this Revolution?  Will this be the Awakening Revolution, the Take it Back Revolution, who will coin the correct phrase the call the next big phase of the human and world life cycle?
 I don’t care what it will be called, I for one am glad it is turning the other direction.  These FARM pages are to celebrate, congratulate, encourage and foster HEALTHY farming.  Join in any way you can, buy from organic farms at your Farmers Markets, buy only Organic foods at your local grocer or road side stand, Support local gardens even if it is just your neighbor sharing some home grown vegetables.  You don’t have to be a tree hugger to enjoy delicious food, your taste buds will tell you all you need to know.

DO YOU RUN, OWN OR KNOW OF AN ORGANIC FARM?  TELL US ABOUT IT!

Monday, February 11, 2013

"How To" Organic Gardening: SPINACH

"How To" Organic Gardening: SPINACH: SPINACH W EBSITE: DIY ORGANIC GARDEN Article compliment of The University of Illinois Extension Spinach growing in the garden is a wel...

SPINACH

SPINACH

WEBSITE: DIY ORGANIC GARDEN

Article compliment of The University of Illinois Extension
Spinach growing in the garden is a welcome sign of spring. It is a source of Vitamin A. It is rich in iron, calcium and protein. Spinach can be grown as a spring and a fall crop. Crinkled leaved varieties tend to catch soil during rainfalls. Plant a plain leaved variety to avoid a "gritty" spinach when chewed.  Spinach is a cool weather crop.

Recommended Varieties

Crinkled-Leaf
Bloomsdale Long Standing (48 days to harvest; thick, very crinkly, glossy dark green leaves) Pictured right.  I like the crinkle spinach so that is what I will be planting in my garden using homemade seed tapes.

Winter Bloomsdale (45 days, tolerant to cucumber mosaic virus, slow to bolt, cold tolerant, good for over-wintering)
Hybrid Savoy
Indian Summer (39 days; semi-savoy; resistant to downy mildew races 1 and 2, tolerant to spinach blight) pictured below left
Melody (42 days; lightly crinkled; resistant to downy mildew, mosaic; good spring or fall) Tyee (39 days; dark green; heavily savoyed; tolerant to downy mildew; spring, fall or winter)
Vienna (40 days; very savoyed; medium to long-standing; tolerant to downy mildew races 1 and 2 as well as spinach blight)
Plain-Leaf
Giant Nobel (43 days; large, smooth leaves; long-standing).
Plain-Leaf Hybrid
Olympia (46 days; slow to bolt; spring, summer harvest).

When to Plant

The first planting can be made as soon as the soil is prepared in the spring. If the soil was prepared in the fall, seeds can be broadcast over frozen ground or snow cover in late winter and they will germinate as the soil thaws. Plant successive crops for several weeks after the initial sowing to keep the harvest going until hot weather. Seed spinach again in late summer for fall and early winter harvest. Chill seeds for summer or fall plantings in the refrigerator for 1 or 2 weeks before planting. In southern locations, immature spinach seedlings survive over winter on well-drained soils and resume growth in spring for early harvest. With mulch, borderline gardeners should be able to coax seedlings through the winter for an early spring harvest. Spinach can be grown in hotbeds, sunrooms or protected cold frames for winter salads.

Spacing & Depth

Sow 12 to 15 seeds per foot of row. Cover 1/2 inch deep. When the plants are one inch tall, thin to 2 to 4 inches apart. Closer spacing (no thinning) is satisfactory when the entire plants are to be harvested. The rows may be as close as 12 inches apart, depending upon the method used for keeping weeds down. In beds, plants may be thinned to stand 4 to 6 inches apart in all directions. Little cultivation is necessary.

Care

Spinach grows best with ample moisture and a fertile, well-drained soil. Under these conditions, no supplemental fertilizer is needed. If growth is slow or the plants are light green, side-dress with nitrogen fertilizer.

Harvesting

The plants may be harvested whenever the leaves are large enough to use (a rosette of at least five or six leaves). Late thinnings may be harvested as whole plants and eaten. Cut the plants at or just below the soil surface. Spinach is of best quality if cut while young. Two or three separate seedings of short rows can provide harvest over an extended period. Some gardeners prefer to pick the outer leaves when they are 3 inches long and allow the younger leaves to develop for later harvest. Harvest the entire remaining crop when seedstalk formation begins because leaves quickly deteriorate as flowering begins.

Common Problems

Cucumber mosaic virus causes a condition in spinach called blight.
Downy mildew and other fungal leaf diseases are a problem, especially in seasons that are wet, humid or both. Some resistance is available through variety selection. Raised beds create excellent air and water drainage in the spinach bed, which also helps prevent infections.

Questions & Answers

Q. What causes spinach to develop flower stalks (seedstalks) before a crop can be harvested?
A. Spinach bolts quickly to seed during the long days in late spring or summer. Warm temperatures accelerate this development. Varieties that are "long standing" or slow to bolt are best adapted for spring planting.
Q. What causes yellowing, stunting and early death of plants?
A. These conditions are caused by blight disease (cucumber mosaic virus). Grow resistant varieties.

Friday, February 8, 2013

"How To" Organic Gardening: TURNIPS

"How To" Organic Gardening: TURNIPS: Turnip/Rutabaga WEB SITE: DIY ORGANIC GARDEN Article compliments of The University of Illinois Extension T urnips grow wild in Siber...

TURNIPS

Turnip/Rutabaga

WEB SITE: DIY ORGANIC GARDEN

Article compliments of The University of Illinois Extension

Turnips grow wild in Siberia and have been eaten since prehistoric times. Rutabagas are a cross between cabbage and turnip.
Turnips are easy to grow if sown in the proper season. They mature in two months and may be planted either in the spring, late summer or fall for roots or greens. The spring crop is planted for early summer use. The fall crop, which is usually larger and of higher quality, is often stored for winter use.
Because rutabagas require 4 weeks longer to mature than turnips, they are best grown as a fall crop. The leaves are smoother and the roots are rounder, larger and firmer than those of turnips. Rutabaga is most commonly grown in the northern tier of states and Canada but should perform fairly well anywhere there is a fairly long cool period in the autumn or early winter.

Recommended Varieties

Turnip (white-fleshed unless noted):
Just Right (hybrid - 28 days to harvest for greens and 60 days for roots; smooth, high quality, mild roots, pure white; for fall)
Gilfeather (75 days; Vermont heirloom; egg-shaped, uniform, large; creamy white, smooth texture, delicate flavor, smooth foliage, almost like a rutabaga)
Golden Ball (60 days, sweet, fine-grained yellow flesh)
Market Express (earliest, 38 days for baby turnips, pure white roots)
Purple Top White Globe (55 days, the standard purple and white; smooth, globe roots)
Royal Crown (hybrid - 52 days, purple top, fast growth, uniform roots, resistant to bolting)
Scarlet Queen (hybrid - 45 days, bright scarlet root, smooth white flesh, resistant to downy mildew, slow to get pithy)
Tokyo Cross (hybrid - 35 days; AAS winner; all-white, uniform, round roots; slow to get pithy)
White Knight (75 days, smooth, uniform, pure white, flattened globe roots)
White Lady (hybrid-pure white, sweet, tender, delicious roots, slow to get pithy; smooth tops)
Turnip Greens:
Alltop (hybrid - 35 days, vigorous, high-yielding, rapid regrowth, resistant to mosaic)
Seven Top (open-pollinated - 40 days; dark green leaves; for tops only)
Shogoin (42 days; tender, mild; roots good when young)
Topper (hybrid - 35 days; heavy yields, vigorous regrowth; good bolt resistance; resistant to mosaic; pale green roots also edible)
Rutabaga (yellow-fleshed):
Altasweet (92 days; purple shoulders, light yellow below; mild, sweet flavor)
American Purple Top (90 days, large globe-shaped roots with purple top and light yellow flesh)
Improved Long Island (90 days; large, spherical; purplish red shoulders, light yellow below; small taproot)
Laurentian (90 days; dark purple shoulders, pale yellow below; smooth, uniform roots, small necks)
Pike (100 days; purple shoulders; similar to Laurentian, better leaf cover, may be left in field later in fall); and Red Chief (90 days)

When to Plant

For summer use, turnips should be planted as early in the spring as possible. For fall harvest, plant rutabagas about 100 days before the first frost and plant turnips about 3 to 4 weeks later.
Fall turnips may also be broadcast after early potatoes, cabbage, beets and peas or between rows of sweet corn. Prepare a good seedbed and rake the seed in lightly. No cultivation is necessary, but you may find that a few large weeds must be removed by hand. Provide ample water for seed germination and vigorous plant growth. Both turnips and rutabagas have been used for excellent fall and early winter stock feed when broadcast onto fields left vacant by earlier crop harvest.

Spacing & Depth

Plant seeds 1/2 inch deep (3 to 20 seeds per foot of row). Allow 12 to 24 inches between rows. Water if necessary to germinate the seed and establish the seedlings (especially for summer sowings). Thin rutabaga seedlings to six inches apart when they are two inches tall. Thin turnip seedlings to 2 to 4 inches apart when they are four inches tall. The removed plants are large enough to use as greens. If you have planted turnips for greens, harvest the tops as needed when they are 4 to 6 inches tall. If the growing points are not removed, tops continue to regrow. Successive plantings at 10 day intervals provide later harvests of quality roots or greens. Old turnips tend to be tough and woody. Rutabagas are not usually sown in succession due to their longer time requirement before harvest. In mild areas, large rutabagas may hold in the garden well into the winter.

Care

When the plants are small, cultivate 2 to 3 inches deep between rows. As the plants become larger, cultivate more shallowly to prevent injury to the tender feeder roots. Pull weeds that appear in the row before they become too large.

Harvesting

Turnips and rutabagas store well in refrigerator. Spring turnips should be pulled or cut when the roots or tops reach usable size. Harvest fall roots starting in early autumn or as needed. Turnips and rutabagas are of best quality (mild and tender) when they are of medium size (turnips should be 2 to 3 inches in diameter and rutabagas 3 to 5 inches in diameter) and have grown quickly and without interruption. Both are hardy to fall frosts and may, in fact, be sweetened by cool weather. A heavy straw mulch extends harvest through the early part of the winter. They may be dipped in warm (but not hot) wax to prevent loss of moisture.

Common Problems

Root maggots can be a problem in areas where radishes, turnips or rutabagas were grown the previous year. The soil should be treated with a suggested insecticide before the next planting.

Questions & Answers

Q. Why are my rutabagas small, tough and bitter tasting?
A. Rutabagas are best grown in northern areas or as a fall crop. When they develop and mature in hot weather, they do not develop typical sweetness and flavor. In southerly locations, try adjusting the planting season so that root development takes place in the cooler days of fall, whenever that may be in your area.
Q. Can you use turnips for greens?
A. Turnip tops are nutritious and often eaten as cooked greens. Certain cultivars - such as 'Shogoin' - are grown exclusively for greens. Other cultivars provide both greens and roots - such as 'Purple Top,' 'White Globe,' 'Just Right' and 'Tokyo Market.'

Thursday, February 7, 2013

CARROTS

CARROT

WEB SITE DIY ORGANIC GARDEN

article compliments of The University of Illinois Extension

Carrot is a hardy, cool-season biennial that is grown for the thickened root it produces in its first growing season. Although carrots can endure summer heat in many areas, they grow best when planted in early spring. Midsummer plantings, that mature quickly in cool fall weather, produce tender, sweet "baby" carrots that are much prized. Carrots are eaten both raw and cooked and they can be stored for winter use. They are rich in carotene (the source of vitamin A) and high in fiber and sugar content.

Recommended Varieties

Small, Round  SCARLET NANNIES PICTURED RIGHT

Orbit (58 days to harvest, good color, few off-types, best harvested at the size of a 50 cent piece)
Thumbelina (60 days; 1992 AAS winner; round roots; good for planting in containers and in heavy, shallow or rocky soil)
Baby
Baby Spike (52 days; 3 to 4 inch roots, 1/2 inch thick; excellent internal color; tender; holds small size well)
Little Finger (65 days; tiny tender roots; 5 inch roots, 1/2 inch thick; golden orange, sweet and crisp)
Minicor (55 days; slender fingerling carrots; colors early; uniform, cylindrical, blunt tip; good flavor)
Short 'n Sweet (68 days; rich, sweet flavor; 4 inch roots, broad at shoulder, tapered to a point; good for heavy or poor soil)
Chantenay
Red-Cored Chantenay (70 days; heavy yield; good flavor; short, thick roots, broad at the shoulder, tapered to blunt tip)
Royal Chantenay (70 days; broad-shouldered, tapered roots; bright orange; good for heavy or shallow soils)
Danvers
Danvers Half-Long (75 days; uniform, 7 to 8 inch roots tapered to very blunt end; sweet, tender)
Danvers 126 (75 days; heavier yield than Danvers; smooth roots; tops withstand heat).
Nantes
Bolero (hybrid-70 days; 7 to 8 inch roots, uniformly thick, tapered slightly to blunt tip; superior resistance to foliage disease)
Ingot (hybrid-70 days; 8 inch roots, 1-1/2 inches thick; indistinct core; deep orange color; strong tops; extremely sweet)
Nantes Coreless (68 days; orange-red; small core, medium top)
Scarlet Nantes (70 days; bright orange, slightly tapered, 6 inch roots; crisp, tender and flavorful; standard for high quality carrots)
Sweetness (hybrid-63 days; sweet and crunchy; cylindrical, 6 inch roots, 1 inch thick)
Touchon (70 days; interior, exterior bright orange; 7 inch roots, nearly coreless)
Imperator
Avenger (hybrid-70 days; extra fancy; slightly blunt, tapered roots, 9 to 10 inches long)
Gold Pak (76 days; 8 inch roots, 1-1/2 inches thick; sweet, tender, as coreless as any; good for juice)
Imperator 58 (68 days; smooth, fine-grained, long, tapered roots; standard long, thin type)
Legend (hybrid-65 days; high yield; smooth, uniform, 9 to 11 inch roots, 1-1/2 inches at shoulder; tolerant to cracking)
Orlando Gold (hybrid-78 days; uniform, long, tapered shape; excellent flavor, color; 30 percent more carotene)
Tendersweet (75 days; long, tapered roots; rich orange color; sweet, coreless)
Novelty
Belgium White (75 days; mild flavor; long, tapered, white roots; productive, vigorous)

When To Plant

Carrots are usually planted with other frost tolerant vegetables as soon as the soil mellows in the spring. They may be planted earlier in gardens with sandy soil. The soil should be plowed and prepared to a depth of 8 to 9 inches to allow full development of the carrot roots and the seedbed should be worked uniformly to break up clumps and clods that prevent penetration of the roots. Varieties with extremely long roots (Imperator and Tendersweet) usually are recommended only for home gardens with deep, sandy soil. Excess organic debris worked into the soil just before planting also may affect root penetration, causing forked and twisted roots.

Spacing & Depth

Plant seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep (no more than two or three seeds per inch) in early spring. Later sowings may be planted 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep when the soil is dryer and warmer. Space rows 12 to 18 inches apart. A single radish seed planted every 6 to 12 inches can mark the row. Germination requires as long as two weeks and the seedlings may not emerge uniformly. If heavy rains occur after sowing, packing the soil surface, no seedlings may emerge. Thin the seedlings when they are about one inch tall to no more than three seedlings per inch for finger carrots; one or two seedlings per inch for carrots that will be harvested young; and one seedling per 1 to 2 inches for larger varieties like Danvers and Chantenay that will be allowed to develop to full size and be harvested mature for canning or freezing.

Care

Carrots germinate best in warm, moist soil. Covering the row with clear polyethylene film warms the soil and conserves moisture. Remove the film immediately when seedlings appear. To assure germination of successive plantings during the late spring and summer months, it may be necessary to supply water by sprinkling. In the heat of summer, some shade may be necessary to keep the tiny seedlings from burning off at the soil line.
Young carrot seedlings are weak and grow slowly. It is essential to keep weeds under control for the first few weeks. Cultivate shallowly with a knife blade cultivator or hoe. Deep cultivation may injure the roots.
Harvesting Carrots can be harvested or "pulled" when the roots are at least 1/2 inch in diameter. Under usual conditions, carrot tops may not be strong enough to withstand actually being pulled from the ground and digging helps to remove the roots without damage. Finger carrots are usually ready to harvest within 50 to 60 days. Other varieties should be allowed to grow until they have reached a diameter of at least 3/4 inch (about 60 to 70 days after planting). They then may be harvested over a 3 to 4 week period. Summer planted carrots may be left in the ground until a killing frost. Some gardeners place a straw mulch over the row so that carrots can be harvested until the ground freezes solid. In many areas, a heavy mulch allows harvest of carrot roots throughout the winter. For carrots to be stored, cut off the tops one inch above the root and place in storage at 32°F with high humidity. Carrots may be placed in a refrigerator, buried in lightly moist sand in an underground cellar or stored in the garden in a pit insulated with straw. Under proper storage conditions, carrots keep 4 to 6 months.

Questions & Answers

Q. What causes my carrots to turn green on the crown (top) of the root?
A. This condition is called "sunburning." It causes an off flavor and dark green pieces in the cooked product. Cut away the green portion and use the rest of the root. When the tops are healthy, sunburning can be avoided by pulling a small amount of loose soil up to the row when the roots are swelling (about 40 to 50 days after planting).
Q. Why are my carrots misshapen, with forked and twisted roots?
A. Forking may result from attacks of root-knot nematodes, from stones, from deep and close cultivation or (more frequently) from planting in a soil that was poorly prepared. Twisting and intertwining result from seeding too thickly and inadequate thinning of seedlings.
Q. What causes my carrots to have fine hairy roots, poor color and a bitter taste?
A. These conditions are caused by a viral disease known as "aster yellows."

Selection & Storage

Carrots can be harvested at various stages of development. Carrot thinnings can be added to fresh salads and eaten green tops and all. "Thinnings" are immature carrots pulled from overcrowded rows to make room for others to grow. Finger-size carrots may be dwarf carrots or immature average ones. They can be very tender and sweet. Harvest carrots before they are over mature, about 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Hugh overgrown carrots are less tasty, and they may have a tough woody core which may need to be removed.
Store carrots with the green tops trimmed. Although the tops are edible, during storage this greenery robs the carrot of moisture and nutritional value. Carrots will keep for several weeks in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator in perforated plastic bags. If you plan to use the green tops in soups and stews, store them separately, as they will only keep for a few days.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits

As the name implies, carrots are brimming with beta carotene. Beta carotene is a substance that is converted to Vitamin A in the human body. A 1/2 cup serving of cooked carrots contains four times the recommended daily intake of Vitamin A in the form of protective beta carotene.
Beta carotene is also a powerful antioxidant effective in fighting against some forms of cancer, especially lung cancer. Current research suggests that it may also protect against stroke, and heart disease. Research also shows that the beta carotene in vegetables supplies this protection, not vitamin supplements. So eat your carrots.
Nutrition Facts (1/2 cup cooked)
Calories 35
Protein .86 grams
Carbohydrates 8.19 grams
Dietary Fiber 2 grams
Calcium 24.18 mg
Iron .47 mg
Phosphorus 23.4
Vitamin A 19,152 IU
Vitamin C 1.79

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

CABBAGE

CABBAGE

WEB SITE DIY ORGANIC GARDEN

Article compliments of The University of Illinois Extension

Cabbage is a hardy vegetable that grows especially well in fertile soils. There are various shades of green available, as well as red or purple types. Head shape varies from the standard round to flattened or pointed. Most varieties have smooth leaves, but the Savoy types have crinkly textured leaves.
Cabbage is easy to grow if you select suitable varieties and practice proper culture and insect management. Always regarded as a good source of vitamins, cabbage recently has been shown to have disease-preventive properties as well.

Recommended Varieties

Green cabbage is grown more often than the red or Savoy types, but red cabbage has become increasingly popular for color in salads and cooked dishes. The Savoy varieties are grown for slaw and salads. Varieties that mature later usually grow larger heads and are more suitable for making sauerkraut than the early varieties. All the varieties listed here are resistant to fusarium wilt ("yellows") unless otherwise indicated. All are hybrid varieties unless marked OP, for open-pollinated variety.
Green Cabbage
Cheers (75 days to harvest; solid round heads; tolerant to black rot and thrips)
Early Jersey Wakefield (OP - 63 days; pointed heads; stands well; resists splitting)
King Cole (74 days; large; firm; extremely uniform heads)
Savoy Cabbage pictured left

Savoy King (85 days to harvest; dark, green color; very uniform)
Savoy Queen (88 days; 5 pounds; deep green color; good heat tolerance)
Red Cabbage
Red Meteor (75 days to harvest; firm; good for all seasons)
Ruby Ball (71 days; 4 pounds; slow to burst; resists both cold and heat)

When To Plant

Transplant early cabbage soon enough that it matures before the heat of summer. Many varieties are available and two or three varieties with different maturities can provide harvest over a long period. Hardened plants are tolerant of frosts and can be planted among the earliest of cool-season garden vegetables. Cabbage is easily transplanted from either bare-root or cell-pack-grown plants. Late cabbage must be started during the heat of mid-summer, but it develops its main head during the cooling weather of fall. It may be transplanted or seeded directly in the garden. In summer, if possible, place seed flats or seedbeds where some protection from the sun is available, either natural or artificial. Try especially hard during this season to transplant on cloudy, overcast or rainy days for minimizing shock from the direct sun of summer.

Spacing & Depth

Space plants 12 to 24 inches apart in the row, depending upon the variety and the size of head desired. The closer the spacing, the smaller the heads. Early varieties are usually planted 12 inches apart in all directions. Early varieties produce 1 to 3 pound heads and later varieties produce 4 to 8 pound heads. Sow cabbage seed 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Keep the seeds moist and thin or transplant the seedlings to the desired spacing. The plants removed may be transplanted to another row or flat.

Care

Use starter fertilizer when transplanting and side-dress with nitrogen fertilizer when the plants are half grown. Cultivate shallowly to keep down weeds. Ample soil moisture is necessary throughout the growing season to produce good cabbage. Irrigation is especially important in fall plantings to help the young plants withstand the intense sunlight and heat of summer and to supply the developing heads with sufficient water to develop quickly.

Harvesting

Cabbage can be harvested anytime after the heads form. For highest yield, cut the cabbage heads when they are solid (firm to hand pressure) but before they crack or split. When heads are mature, a sudden heavy rain may cause heads to crack or split wide open. The exposed internal tissue soon becomes unusable. Harvest and salvage split heads as soon as possible after they are discovered.
In addition to harvesting the mature heads of the cabbage planted in the spring, you can harvest a later crop of small heads (cabbage sprouts). These sprouts develop on the stumps of the cut stems. Cut as close to the lower surface of the head as possible, leaving the loose outer leaves intact. Buds that grow in the axils of these leaves (the angle between the base of the leaf and the stem above it) later form sprouts. The sprouts develop to 2 to 4 inches in diameter and should be picked when firm. Continue control of cabbage worms and other pests. If this control cannot be maintained, remove and destroy or compost the stumps, because they serve as a breeding ground for diseases and insect pests.

Common Problems

Yellow or fusarium wilt is a relatively common disease that causes the leaves of plants to wilt and die. The first sign of the disease is yellowing and browning of the lower leaves. The plants are stunted before wilting occurs. Grow yellows-resistant (YR) or yellows-tolerant varieties. Most modern hybrids have this tolerance or resistance bred into them.
Blackleg and black rot are two diseases that cause severe losses. The plants may be stunted, turn yellow and die. Blackleg is named for the black cankers on the stem. The taproot often rots away. Black rot can be recognized by large, V-shaped, yellow-to-brown areas in the leaves, starting at the leaf edge. The veins turn black. Soft rot usually follows black-rot infection.
Control is essentially the same for blackleg and black rot. Both diseases are spread by seed, transplants and insects. Buy seed that has been hot-water treated to kill the disease organisms. Do not buy transplants that are wilted, are an unhealthy shade of green, or have black spots on the stems or leaves.
When you find diseased plants in the garden, collect the leaves, stems and tops; and burn or dispose of them. Do not put diseased plants into the compost pile. Avoid cultural practices (crowding, overwatering, planting in poorly drained soil and inadequate insect control) that support the disease organisms of black rot and blackleg. If possible, grow black-rot-resistant varieties.

Questions & Answers

Q. What can I do to prevent my cabbage heads from splitting?
A. Splitting is caused by the pressure of excessive water taken up after the heads are solid. Cutting the roots (spading on two sides of the plant) or breaking the roots (lifting and twisting the head to one side) can often reduce excessive splitting or bursting, but it also damages the plant and requires that the head be harvested relatively soon.
Q. What causes cabbage to develop seedstalks rather than solid heads?
A. Cabbage plants "bolt" (form premature seedstalks) when they are exposed to low temperatures (35 to 45 degrees F) for extended periods. Such chilling may happen if plants are set out too early or if an unseasonable blast of cold assaults the garden. After the plants have stems as large as a pencil, they are subject to this "cold conditioning," that initiates the flowering response.
Q. What is flowering cabbage?
A. Nonheading varieties of cabbage (similar to flowering kale) have been developed for ornamental uses. They have colorful white, pink or red rosettes of leaves surrounded by green or purple outer leaves. Most colorful during cool fall weather, they should be started in early summer to midsummer and set out with fall and winter plantings of regular, heading varieties of cabbage. Flowering cabbage (and flowering kale) are edible as well as ornamental.
Q. Why do butterflies fly around my cabbage plants?
A. Those butterflies (white or brown) are probably the moths of cabbage worms. They lay eggs on the plants. The eggs hatch into the worms that cause considerable damage unless controlled. Most control strategies are aimed at the developing larvae rather than the mature moths themselves.
Q. What causes large, lumpy swellings of my cabbage roots? The plants also are stunted.
A. Swellings and distorted roots on stunted, wilted plants may be symptoms of clubroot disease. This disease is caused by a fungus that remains in the garden soils for many years once it becomes established. It is spread by movement of infested soil and infected transplants. Other related cole crops (like broccoli and cauliflower) also may become infected. If you suspect that you have clubroot disease in your garden, ask your local Extension office for help. If, in fact, you have clubroot in a location, destroy infected plant parts (including the roots) and for at least 4 years avoid planting any member of the cabbage family there, including radishes, turnips and ornamental relatives of cabbage.

Selection & Storage

Harvest large, unsplit heads of green cabbage. Look for tight, heavy heads, free of insects and decay. Fresh, uncut heads of cabbage can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Cover loosely with a plastic bag or use perforated bags. Do not wash cabbage before storing, the extra moisture will hasten deterioration.
Green cabbage — Green cabbage is sometimes called Dutch White. The outer leaves are dark green and the inner leaves are smooth and pale to medium green. If you plan to eat the cabbage raw, use within a few days. Cabbage that you plan to cook can be stored in the refrigerator for about two weeks.
Savoy cabbage — Crinkly, with waves of blue-green leaves, Savoy cabbage is a beautiful sight growing in the garden. These thin, richly flavored leaves are ideal served raw in salads or cooked. Cooked Savoys do not have the strong sulfur odor of green cabbage. Savoy only keep for about 4 days in the refrigerator so buy it when you plan to use it.
Red cabbage — This variety is usually smaller and denser than heads of green cabbage. The flavor of red cabbage is slightly peppery and it is very susceptible to color change. Cook red cabbage with vinegar (or other acidic ingredient) or it will turn an ugly blue-gray color. Always use stainless steel knives and cookware when preparing red cabbage to prevent color changes.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits

There are literally hundred of varieties of cabbage. The most popular varieties in the United States are green cabbage and bok choy. As with broccoli, cabbage is a cruciferous vegetable and may reduce the risk of some forms of cancer including colorectal cancers. Cabbage is also high in beta-carotene, vitamin C and fiber. Other substantial nutrients in a half cup cooked cabbage include the following.
Nutrition Facts (1/2 cup cooked green cabbage)
Calories 16
Dietary fiber 2.9 grams
Carbohydrates 3.6 mg
Vitamin C 18.2 mg

Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Cool weather crop. "How To" Organic Gardening: Beets

"How To" Organic Gardening: Beets: BEETS WEB SITE DIY ORGANIC GARDEN Compliments of The University of Illinois Extension Table beet (also known as garden beet, blood turn...

Beets

BEETS

WEB SITE DIY ORGANIC GARDEN

Compliments of The University of Illinois Extension Table beet (also known as garden beet, blood turnip or red beet) is a popular garden vegetable throughout the United States. Beet tops are an excellent source of vitamin A and the roots are a good source of vitamin C. The tops are cooked or served fresh as greens and the roots may be pickled for salads or cooked whole, then sliced or diced. Beet juice is a basic ingredient of Russian borscht. The garden beet is closely related to Swiss chard, sugar beet and mangel. Mangels (also known as stock beets) are considered too coarse for human consumption but are grown for stock feed.

Recommended Varieties

Garden (open pollinated)
Crosby's Egyptian (56 days to harvest; uniform, sweet, dark red roots; semi-globe to heart shaped; glossy, bright green tops, excellent for greens)
Detroit Dark Red (58 days; tender, round, dark red roots) pictured to the right.

Early Wonder (52 days; flattened globe shape; dark red, sweet and tender)
Lutz Green Leaf (70 days; an heirloom winter-keeper type; purplish red exterior, deep red interior; large, glossy green tops, excellent for greens; roots stay tender even when large; stores extremely well)Pictured left
Ruby Queen (60 days; AAS winner; excellent quality; early; round, tender, sweet, fine-grained, attractive, uniform roots)
Sangria (56 days; ideal globe shape, even in crowded rows; deep red; good greens when young)
Sweetheart (58 days; extra-sweet, round, tasty roots; tops good for greens)
Garden (hybrid)
Avenger (57 days; uniform, vigorous; smooth, medium, globe- shaped red roots; glossy tops, good for greens)
Big Red (55 days, best late-season producer, excellent flavor and yield)
Gladiator (48 days; juicy, fine-grained flesh, deep red throughout; holds color without fading when cooked; uniform shape, size and flavor; excellent for canning)
Pacemaker (50 days; early; short tops, excellent-quality roots)
Red Ace (53 days; early; sweet, red roots; resists zoning in hot weather; vigorous grower)
Warrior (57 days; highly uniform, globe shape develops quickly, holds quality as roots grow large; dark red color inside and out; tops fringed with red)
Mini
Little Ball (50 days; very uniform, small size; good shape; very tender; grows quickly to form smooth roots)
Little Mini Ball (54 days; roots the size of a silver dollar at maturity; round; canned whole; short tops good for greens)
Specialty
Cylindra (60 days; long, cylindrical; all slices of equal diameter)
di Chioggia (50 days; Italian heirloom; rounded, candy red exterior; raw interior banded red and white; sweet, mellow flavor; bright green tops, mild and tasty; germinates strongly and matures quickly; does not get woody with age)
Golden (55 days; buttery color, sweet mild flavor) pictured right

Green Top Bunching (65 days; round, bright red roots, good internal color in cool weather; tops superior for greens).

When To Plant

Beets are fairly frost hardy and can be planted in the garden 30 days before the frost-free date for your area. Although beets grow well during warm weather, the seedlings are established more easily under cool, moist conditions. Start successive plantings at 3 to 4 week intervals until midsummer for a continuous supply of fresh, tender, young beets. Irrigation assures germination and establishment of the later plantings.

Spacing & Depth

The beet "seed" is actually a cluster of seeds in a dried fruit. Several seedlings may grow from each fruit. Some seed companies are now singulating the seed for precision planting, by dividing the fruit. Plant seeds about 1/2 inch deep and one inch apart. Allow 12 to 18 inches between rows. Poor stands are often the result of planting too deeply or the soil's crusting after a heavy rain. The seedlings may emerge over a relatively long period of time, making a stand of different sizes and ages of seedlings. Some gardeners find that placing a board over the row after planting preserves the soil moisture and eliminates crusting from hard rains. The board must be removed as soon as the first seedling starts to emerge.
Hand thinning is almost always necessary. The seedlings should be thinned to 1 to 3 inches apart. If thinning is delayed until the plants are 3 inches tall, those removed may be cooked greens, similar to spinach. Some cooks leave the small root (usually about the size of a marble) attached to the greens.
Though it is seldom done, beets actually may be transplanted. Some care must be taken to get the roots oriented vertically so that the beets can develop properly.

Care

Frequent shallow cultivation is important because beets compete poorly with weeds, especially when small. Because beets have extremely shallow roots, hand weeding and early, frequent and shallow cultivation are the most effective methods of controlling weeds in the rows. Deep cultivation after the weeds are large damages the beet roots. Like most root crops, beets need a fertile soil (especially high in potassium) for vigorous growth. Keep your beet plants uniformly supplied with moisture for best performance.

Harvesting

Beets can be harvested whenever they grow to the desired size. About 60 days are required for beets to reach 1 1/2 inches in diameter, the size often used for cooking, pickling or canning as whole beets. Beets enlarge rapidly to 3 inches with adequate moisture and space. With most varieties, beets larger than 3 inches may become tough and fibrous. Beets may be stored in a polyethylene bag in a refrigerator for several weeks. Beets also may be stored in outdoor pits if the beets are dug before the ground freezes in the fall. Cut off the tops of the beets one inch above the roots. Beets store best at 32°F and 95 percent humidity. Do not allow them to freeze.

Questions & Answers

Q. What causes the beets in my garden to develop tops but no roots?
A. The most frequent cause for beet plants failing to develop roots is overcrowding from improper thinning.
Q. What varieties should I grow for beet greens?
A. A special vigorously growing variety, Green Top Bunching, is excellent for producing greens. Crosby Egyptian and Early Wonder also can be used for greens. Planting the seeds 1/2 inch apart without thinning produces an abundance of greens. Swiss chard is a heavy producer of greens very similar to beet greens.

Selection & Storage

Beets can be harvested at any stage of development, from the thinning to the fully mature stage at about 2 inches in diameter. The "thinnings" are beets that have been pulled from the ground prematurely to make room for others when rows are overcrowded. Thinnings can be eaten raw, tops included, in salads or roasted. Beets are high in natural sugar and roasting brings out the natural sweetness.
Beets vary in color and shape based on variety. The most common is the deep maroon globe-shaped beet. There is an Italian variety which has pink and white rings upon slicing. The golden globe is globe-shaped and orange in color then it turns golden yellow when cooked. Another variety is white and still another is pink.
When harvesting beets, separate the green tops from the roots leaving an inch of stem on the beet. Beets larger than 3 inches in diameter are often fibrous and woody. Beet greens are packed with nutritional value but must be prepared separately. Upon storage the greens will quickly draw the moisture from the root greatly reducing flavor and the beets will become shriveled. Leave one inch stem and the taproot intact to retain moisture and nutrients. After separating, beets store well for about a week in perforated plastic bags in the refrigerator. Use beets while they are still firm and fresh.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits

Beets are particularly rich in folate. Folate and folic acid have been found to prevent neural-tube birth defects and aid in the fight against heart disease and anemia. Beets are also high in fiber, both soluble and insoluble. Insoluble fiber helps to keep your intestinal track running smoothly and soluble fiber helps to keep your blood sugar and blood cholesterol levels on track.
Nutrition Facts (1 cup cooked, sliced)
Calories 31
Protein 1.5 grams
Carbohydrate 8.5 grams
Dietary Fiber 1.5 grams
Potassium 259 mg
Phosphorus 32 mg
Folate 53.2 mcg

Monday, February 4, 2013

SWEET CORN

SWEET CORN

WEB SITE: DIY ORGANIC GARDEN

Compliments of Urban Extension, Illinois

Sweet corn is a warm-season vegetable that can be grown easily in any garden with sufficient light, fertility, growing season and space. It is especially popular with home gardeners because it tastes appreciably better when it is harvested and eaten fresh from the garden. Successive plantings can yield continual harvests from early summer until frost if the weather cooperates.
Sweet corn may be divided into three distinct types according to genetic background: normal sugary (SU), sugary enhancer (SE) and supersweet (Sh2).
Standard sweet corn varieties contain a "sugary (SU) gene" that is responsible for the sweetness and creamy texture of the kernels. SUs are best suited to being picked, husked and eaten within a very short time. In the home garden, this is sometimes possible but not always practical. The old adage was "start the water boiling, run to the patch, pick and husk the corn, run back to the pot, cook the corn, and eat or process immediately."
Sugary enhancer hybrids contain the sugary enhancer (SE) gene, that significantly raises the sugar content above standard SUs while retaining the tenderness and creamy texture of standard varieties. The taste, tenderness and texture are outstanding. SEs are the gourmet corns of choice for home gardeners because they contain the best qualities of both SU and Sh2 types. Fresh from the garden, virtually all current SE releases have eating quality that is superior to all other types. No isolation from standard SUs is necessary.
Supersweet hybrids contain the shrunken -2 gene and have a higher sugar content than the standard SU varieties. The kernels of the extra-sweet varieties have a crispy, tough-skinned texture and contain low amounts of the water-soluble polysaccharides that impart the creamy texture and "corny" flavor to other sweet corn varieties. Although the lack of creamy texture is not especially noticeable in fresh corn on the cob, it affects the quality of frozen and canned corn, as does the toughness of the seed coat. Unless corn must be stored, shipped or mechanically harvested, SEs are superior in eating quality to Sh2s.
Supersweets (Sh2) should be isolated from any other type of corn tasseling at the same time to ensure sweetness and tenderness. Their pollen is weak and easily supplanted by other types, which causes the kernel to revert to a form with the toughness and starchiness of field corn. Because corn is wind-pollinated, this isolation distance can be 500 feet or more, especially downwind.

Recommended Varieties

Most of the varieties listed here (like nearly all sweet corn sold today) are hybrids. They are arranged by genetic type and kernel color. The maturity dates are relative because the actual number of days to harvest varies from year to year and location to location.
Standard (SU)
Yellow
Harvest
Ear Size
Comments
Earlivee 58 days 7"-14 rows extra early
Golden Cross Bantam 85 days 8"-12 to 14 rows old home-garden variety
Iochief 86 days 8"-14 to 16 rows popular midseason variety
Jubilee 82 days 8"-16 rows high yield; deep, narrow kernels; excellent for canning
I tried this jubilee last year 2012 and did not like the quality, maybe it need more water as we had a drought.
NK-199 84 days 8"-18 to 20 rows extremely thick, attractive ears; silks easily removed
Seneca Horizon 65 days 7"-16 to 18 rows excellent quality
Sundance 69 days 1/2"-14 rows best cold-soil tolerance, early season vigor; handsome ears

White
Harvest
Ear Size
Comments
Pearl White 75 days 7 to 8"-12 to 16 rows good cool-soil and drought tolerance; easy snapping
Platinum Lady 86 days 8 1/2"-14 rows delicate flavor; tender kernels; slender, elegant ears
Silver Queen 92 days 8 to 9"-14 to 16 rows dark green flag leaves, attractive ears; standard, high-quality white corn; resistant to bacterial wilt and Helminthosporium

Bicolor
Harvest
Ear Size
Comments
BiQueen 92 days 8 to 9"-16 rows like a bicolor Silver Queen
Butter & Sugar 75 days 7"-14 rows popular for home garden
Honey & Cream 80 days 7"-12 to 14 rows sweet, tender; long, tight husks
Quickie 64 days 7 1/2"-12 rows earliest SU bicolor
Sugar & Gold 67 days 6 1/2"-10 to 12 rows husk green, with reddish tinge; excellent quality; prefers cooler-season areas

Sugary Extender (SE)

Harvest
Ear Size
Comments
Bodacious 72 days 8"-16 to 18 rows superior flavor, holding ability; ears snap easily; prefers warm soil
Champ 68 days 8"-16 to 18 rows excellent eating quality, tip cover
Incredible 83 days 8 to 9"-18 rows big, flavorful ears; excellent appearance, yield
Kandy Korn 89 days 8"-14 to 16 rows purplish red-streaked ear flags, excellent quality, long shelf life
Maple Sweet 70 days 7 1/2"-14 to 16 rows excellent flavor, easy snapping
Merlin 84 days 9"-20 to 22 rows superior flavor, ear size, disease tolerance; easy snapping
Miracle 84 days 9 1/2"-16 to 18 rows good holding quality; large, tender, attractive, tasty ears
Precocious 66 days 7"-12 to 14 rows very early; excellent eating, good tipfill
Spring Treat 67 days 7"-14 rows easy snapping, straight rows of kernels
Sugar Buns 72 days 7 1/2"-14 rows excellent flavor; attractive, relatively small ears; deep kernels
Terminator 83 days 9"-20 rows large ears, superior disease resistance
Tuxedo 75 days 7 1/2"-16 to 20 rows excellent early vigor; good tipfill, husk cover; excellent eating quality; tolerant to Stewart’s wilt, and smut

White
Harvest
Ear Size
Comments
Alpine 79 days 8"-16 rows widely adapted; excellent yield; cool-soil tolerance; attractive ear
Argent 86 days 8 to 9"-16 rows good cold-soil vigor; tolerant to Stewart’s wilt; like a white Incredible
Avalanche 78 days 8"-16 rows excellent eating; good ear appearance
Cotton Candy 72 days 7 to 8"-16 to 18 extended harvest; reddish green stalks
Divinity 78 days 8"-16 rows excellent flavor, tenderness; snow white color; excellent tip cover; tolerant to drought, Stewart’s wilt
Pristine 76 days 8 to 9"-16 rows terrific eating quality, tolerant to Stewart’s wilt
Seneca Starshine 71 days 7 to 8"-16 rows blocky ears, with pure white kernels; excellent tenderness, flavor, appearance; prefers 50°F or higher soil temperature for germination
Seneca White Knight 74 days 8 to 9"-16 rows high quality; attractive ears; great taste
Snowbelle 79 days 7 to 8"-14 to 16 rows creamy texture; pretty, compact ears
Spring Snow 65 days 7 to 8"-12 rows excellent husk cover; very early; attractive ears; very tender kernels; compact plant
Sugar Snow 71 days 8 to 9"-16 rows extremely sweet, snow white kernels; good cold-soil tolerance
Telstar 79 days 8"-16 rows vigorous; dark green flag leaves; tasty; attractive ear
Ambrosia 75 days 8"-16 rows good spring vigor; fairly large, tasty ears; tolerant to Stewart’s wilt
Calico Belle 79 days 8"-16 to 18 rows high yield; attractive; delicious taste; good disease tolerance
D’Artagnan 71 days 8"-16 rows superior quality in an early SE bicolor
Diamonds & Gold 79 days 8"-18 rows sweet, tender; good tipfill; attractive dark green ears
Double Delight 85 days 9"-16 rows large, tasty ears; dark green husk; like a bicolor Incredible
Double Gem 74 days 8 to 9"-16 to 18 rows excellent eating quality; blocky ears; usually double ears on stalks
Kiss ‘N Tell 68 days 7 to 8"-14 to 16 rows two ears per stalk; good tipfill
Lancelot 80 days 8"-16 to 18 rows vigorous, stress-tolerant plant; good yields; high quality ears under adverse conditions
Medley 73 days 8"-16 rows dark green flags; good tip cover; tolerant to Stewart’s wilt
Peaches & Cream 83 days 8"-16 to 18 rows tasty, poplar home-garden variety; vigorous plant; good ear protection
Seneca Brave 73 days 8"-18 to 20 rows husky, excellent quality ears; strong plants
Seneca Dawn 69 days 7 to 8"-14 to 16 rows excellent early bicolor; good vigor, eating quality

Supersweet (Sh2)
Yellow
Harvest
Ear Size
Comments
ChallengerCrisp ‘N Sweet 85 days 9"-18 rows high yield; excellent disease resistance; good germination, seedling vigor
Early Xtra Sweet 70 days 8"-16 rows like the original, but earlier
Excel 82 days 8 1/2" - 16 rows exceptionally high yield, easy to harvest
Illini Gold 79 days 8 1/2"-16 rows midseason supersweet
Illini Xtra Sweet 85 days 8"-14 to 16 rows the original SH2 supersweet hybrid
Jubilee Supersweet 83 days 9"-18 rows excellent home garden supersweet
Showcase 83 days 8" large ear on short plant, outstanding eating quality

White
Harvest
Ear Size
Comments
Aspen 83 days 8 to 9"-16 rows large, attractive ears; high eating quality
Camelot 86 days 8"-18 to 20 rows clean, sturdy plants; excellent quality, holding traits
How Sweet It Is 85 days 8"-16 rows All-America Selection winner, sensitive to cold soil, holds quality well
Pegasus 85 days 8 1/2"-18 rows good cold soil germination, vigor
Treasure 83 days 8 1/2"-18 rows good vigor, seedling emergence

Bicolor
Harvest
Ear size
Comments
Aloha 82 days 9"-16 rows excellent appearance
Dazzle 82 days 8"-16 to 18 rows good looking ear; good disease resistance; creamy texture
Honey ‘N Pearl 78 days 8 1/2"-16 rows 1988 All-America Selection winner, stands well, excellent quality
Hudson 83 days 8"-18 rows smooth, well-filled ears; superior eating quality, tenderness
Phenomenal 85 days 8 1/2"-16 rows excellent eating quality, beautiful ears
Radiance 73 days 8"-16 to 18 rows excellent seedling emergence, plant vigor

When to Plant

Sweet corn requires warm soil for germination (above 55°F for standard sweet corn varieties and about 65°F for supersweet varieties). Early plantings of standard sweet corn should be made at, or just before, the mean frost-free date unless you use special soil-warming protection such as clear polyethylene mulch film.
For a continuous supply of sweet corn throughout the summer, plant an early variety, a second early variety and a main-crop variety in the first planting. For example, you may wish to select Sundance (69 days) for the first early variety, Tuxedo (75 days) for the second early variety and Incredible (83 days) for the main-crop variety. Make a second planting and successive plantings of your favorite main-crop or late variety when three to four leaves have appeared on the seedlings in the previous planting. Plantings can be made as late as the first week of July.
Open-Pollinated (SU)
Yellow
Harvest
Ear size
Comments
Ashworth 69 days 6 to 7" ears, 12 rows good cold soil germination; good flavor for an early type
Golden Bantam 82 days 6 to 7"ears, 10 to 14 rows rich corn flavor, sweet, tender

White
Harvest
Ear size
Comments
Country Gentleman 96 days 7" ears, kernels not in rows very tender, shoe-peg type; drought resistant
Stowell’s Evergreen 100 days 9"ears, 18 to 20 rows big, juicy, white kernels; ripen over long period
Trucker’s Favorite 95 days 8 to 9" ears, 14 rows delicious white kernels, high yields


Bicolor
Harvest
Ear size
Comments
Double Standard 73 days 7"ears, 12 to 14 rows first bicolor open-pollinated type; good cold soil germination good flavor, tenderness; traditional corn taste

Black
Harvest
Ear size
Comments
Black Aztec 75 days 7"ears, 8 to 10 rows vigorous drought tolerant; sweet white kernels in roasting ear stage, dark blue-black at maturity; good for blue corn meal

Spacing & Depth

Plant the kernels (seeds) 1/2 inch deep in cool, moist soils and 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep in warm, dry soils. Space the kernels 9 to 12 inches apart in the row. Plant two or more rows of each variety side by side to ensure good pollination and ear development. Allow 30 to 36 inches between rows.
All sweet corns should be protected from possible cross-pollination by other types of corn (field, pop or flint). If you plant supersweet or synergistic sweet corn varieties, plan your garden arrangement and planting schedule so as to prevent cross-pollination between these varieties and with any other corn, including nonSh2 sweet corns. Supersweet varieties pollinated by standard sweet corn, popcorn or field corn do not develop a high sugar content and are starchy. Cross-pollination between yellow and white sweet corn varieties of the same type affects only the appearance of the white corn, not the eating quality.

Care

Cultivate shallowly to control weeds. Chemical herbicides are not recommended for home gardens. Although corn is a warm-weather crop, lack of water at critical periods can seriously reduce quality and yield. If rainfall is deficient, irrigate thoroughly during emergence of the tassels, silking and maturation of the ears.
Hot, droughty conditions during pollination result in missing kernels, small ears and poor development of the tips of the ears. Side-dress nitrogen fertilizer when the plants are 12 to 18 inches tall.
Some sweet corn varieties produce more side shoots or "suckers" than others. Removing these side shoots is time consuming and does not improve yields.

Harvesting

Each cornstalk should produce at least one large ear. Under good growing conditions (correct spacing; freedom from weeds, insects and disease; and adequate moisture and fertility), many varieties produce a second ear. This second ear is usually smaller and develops later than the first ear.
Sweet corn ears should be picked during the "milk stage" when the kernels are fully formed but not fully mature. This stage occurs about 20 days after the appearance of the first silk strands. The kernels are smooth and plump and the juice in the kernel appears milky when punctured with a thumbnail. Sweet corn remains in the milk stage less than a week. As harvest time approaches, check frequently to make sure that the kernels do not become too mature and doughy. Other signs that indicate when the corn is ready for harvest are drying and browning of the silks, fullness of the tip kernels and firmness of the unhusked ears.
To harvest, snap off the ears by hand with a quick, firm, downward push, twist and pull. The ears should be eaten, processed or refrigerated as soon as possible. At summer temperatures, the sugar in sweet corn quickly decreases and the starch increases.
Cut or pull out the cornstalks immediately after harvest and put them in a compost pile. Cut the stalks in one foot lengths or shred them to hasten decay.

Common Problems

Corn earworms are a problem in sweet corn every year. Earlier plantings are not badly infested in areas where the pest does not overwinter, but later harvests usually have severe earworm damage unless timely control measures are followed. Corn earworms deposit eggs on the developing silks or on the leaves near the ear. The tiny caterpillars follow the silks down into the ear, where they feed on the tip. Only one corn earworm will be found per ear because the caterpillars are cannibalistic, with the largest devouring any others present. Once the worm is inside the protective husk covering, there is no effective control. Anything that restricts the worm-such as tightening the tip of the husk with a rubber band or clothespin after the silk appears, or inserting mineral oil (1/2 medicine dropperful) in the silk tube-helps to decrease the damage.
Corn rootworm beetles may cause extensive silk damage that interferes with pollination. Later plantings usually suffer the greatest damage, especially where field corn is grown. Beetles multiply in early plantings of field corn, mature and migrate to plantings of young, tender sweet corn. Silk and the young, tender, green leaves are preferred feeding sites. If infestation is sufficient to remove silk before pollination, cobs develop without a full set of kernels. Control measures must be taken as the silk emerges.
European corn borers damage stalks, tassels and ears. As their name indicates, corn borers bore into the plant; and the stalks break over when damage is severe. Corn borers also may bore into the cob and be found after cooking. A suggested insecticide can be applied at 5 day intervals, beginning when eggs hatch in June. Spray applications for earworms usually give adequate control of corn borers.
Flea beetles often attack early in the spring as the corn plants emerge through the soil. Flea beetles can be quite damaging when numerous and they may carry Stewart's bacterial wilt disease.
Stewart's wilt is a bacterial disease spread by the flea beetle. This disease causes yellow streaks in the leaves, stunting and death of young plants of susceptible varieties. The disease occurs more frequently in the southern states and is not severe after cold winters or when resistant varieties are planted. If possible, plant varieties with good resistance.
Smut is caused by a fungus that invades the kernels. It develops as a swollen black pustule (gall) in the ear and sometimes infects the tassel. Some sweet corn varieties are more tolerant to smut than others. Smut occurs most frequently on white varieties and is often severe when extremely dry or hot weather occurs just before and during tasseling. Remove and destroy smut galls while they are moist and firm. Do not discard these galls in or near the garden. Place in the garbage or burn them. The smut is not poisonous, but it is unpleasant to handle. Break off the infected part of the ear. The remainder is suitable for eating.
The immature smut fungus or "maize mushroom" is highly prized in Mexican cooking. Harvest when the fungus is expanded, but before it becomes black and dried out. The time generally is about 2 to 3 days before the sweet corn reaches peak eating quality.

Questions & Answers

Q. How long does it take sweet corn to develop from the first appearance of silks to harvest?
A. About 5 days are required for complete pollination after the first silks appear. Harvest begins about 20 days after first silking.
Q. The germination of my Illini Xtra Sweet is low. How can I get a better stand?
A. The seeds of supersweet varieties are shrunken and do not germinate readily in cold, wet soil. Do not plant too early in the spring. Wait until the soil is warm, preferably 65°F. Sow the seed more thickly and thin if necessary. Fungicide seed treatments may also be helpful.
Q. Why don't my sweet corn ears fill out to the tips?
A. Several conditions can cause poor kernel development at the tip of the ear such as dry weather during silking and pollination; planting too close; poor fertility, lack of potassium; and poor natural pollination. These conditions may be overcome by watering in dry weather; planting at recommended spacing (9 to 12 inches in the row); proper fertilization; and planting short rows in blocks of two or more for more complete pollination.
Q. What is the best way to grow early corn?
A. Choose an early maturing variety, plant early and shallowly (about 1/2 inch deep), and cover the row with clear polyethylene film. Use 1 or 2 mil film 3 feet wide and cover the edges and ends to warm the soil around the seeds. The small plants can be left under the plastic for 2 to 4 weeks. Remove the film, or cut slits and carefully pull the plants through before the weather becomes too hot. It is wise to experiment with this technique on a small scale first. Unseasonable heat can quickly cook and kill young seedlings under clear plastic.
Q. How can I keep raccoons out of my sweet corn?
A. It is virtually impossible to keep raccoons out of garden, although many methods are employed. The most successful seems to be an electric fence made with two wires, one about 4 inches above ground level and the other at 12 inches. The fence must be operating well in advance of the time that the corn approaches maturity. Raccoons prefer to eat sweet corn in the early milk stage, just before it is ready to harvest.

Selection & Storage

Corn is a European word meaning kernel. The corn plant is native American in origin and Illinois is corn country. Driving through the state, you will see endless fields of sweet corn, feed corn, and popcorn. Small plot gardeners know that corn takes up a lot of space, it is greedy for soil nutrients, prone to weeds and disease, destroyed by small animals, wind and frost. So why do we go through all the trouble of growing corn? Because no corn is as fresh and sweet as the corn you grow yourself.
The period of peak freshness for sweet corn is measured in minutes not hours or days. The best corn is simply the freshest corn. Proper timing for harvest is crucial to the quality of sweet corn. Harvest sweet corn when the ears are full and blunt at the tip. The husks should be tightly folded and green. Using your thumb nail, poke an end kernel. It should squirt forth milky white sap. Underripe corn will contain a watery liquid; overripe corn will have a tough skinned kernel with doughy interiors. Also look at the silk, it should be turning brown and dry on the end.
Storing sweet corn for long periods of time will destroy it. The sugar quickly turns to starch, losing flavor, quality and most of all sweetness. If you must store sweet corn, use perforated plastic bags and get it into the refrigerator as soon as possible. Warm temperatures hasten the conversion process. Try to use the corn within 1 to 2 days and do not husk until just prior to cooking.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits

Sweet corn is high in fiber, niacin, folate and some vitamin A. Folate has been found to prevent neural-tube birth defects and current research suggests that it helps to reduce the risk of heart disease and stroke. Fiber, of course, helps to keep the intestinal track running smoothly.
Nutrition Facts (Serving size: 1 ear yellow sweet corn )
Calories 83.16
Protein 2.56 grams
Carbohydrates 19.3 grams
Dietary Fiber 2.15 grams
Potassium 191.73 mg
Vitamin A 167 IU
Niacin 1.24 mg
Folate 35.73 mcg