Growing StrawberriesInformation taken from: http://urbanext.illinois.edu/strawberries/growing.cfmWEBSITE: DIY ORGANIC GARDENTypesJune bearing(this is what I have) or spring bearing, everbearing and day neutral are the three types of strawberries grown in Illinois. Fruits of day neutral plants and everbearers are usually smaller than June-bearers fruit.June bearing strawberries produce a crop during a two-to-three week period in the spring. June-bearers produce flowers, fruits and runners. They are classified into early, mid-season and late varieties. Mine start produceing the last weeks of May and continue until Mid June with sporadic berries after that. Everbearing strawberries produce three periods of flowers and fruit during the spring, summer and fall. Everbearers do not produce many runners. Day neutral strawberries will produce fruit throughout the growing season. These strawberries produce just a few runners. Everbearing and day neutral strawberries are great for gardeners who have limited space. They can be grown in terraced beds, barrels or pyramids. They can also be used as an edging plant or a groundcover. When to PlantPlant strawberries as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. This is usually in March or April allowing the plants to become well established before the hot weather arrives. Do not work the soil if it is wet. Wait a few days until it dries.Planting DepthTry to plant strawberries on a cloudy day or during the late afternoon. Set the strawberry plant in the soil so that the soil is just covering the tops of the roots. Do not cover the crown.Matted Row SystemsThis system is the best for growing June-bearing cultivars. In this system, the strawberry plants should be set eighteen to thirty inches apart in rows three to four feet apart. Daughter plants are allowed to root freely to become a matted row no wider than two feet.I use the matted row system. See my Strawberries for how this is done. Spaced-Row SystemsThis system limits the number of daughter plants that grow from a mother plant. The mother plants are set eighteen to thirty inches apart in rows three to four feet apart. The daughter plants are spaced to root no closer than four inches apart. All other runners are pulled or cut from the mother plants. Even though more care is needed under this system, advantages include higher yields, larger berries and fewer disease problems.After four or five weeks, the plants will produce runners and new daughter plants. Hill System This is the best system for growing day-neutral and everbearing strawberries. In this system all the runners are removed so only the original mother plant remains. Removing the runners causes the mother plant to develop more crowns and flower stalks. Multiple rows are arranged in groups of two, three or four plants with a two foot walkway between each group of rows. Plants are set about one foot apart in multiple rows. During the first two or three weeks of growth, the planting should be weeded; then the bed should be mulched When purchasing strawberries by the pound, one-and-a-half pounds equal one quart. This will yield about four cups of sliced strawberries. RECIPES The University of Illinois has some good recipes |
This blog will be an on going discussion on Organic Gardening, selling your garden products, canning, freezing and drying the garden products. We are going to investigate all aspects of Organic Gardening by putting in a garden in a 5 year old spot and putting in a new spot and see what happens
Monday, June 3, 2013
STRAWBERRIES
Thursday, April 18, 2013
"How To" Organic Gardening: PEST MANAGEMENT, HELPFUL RESOURCES
"How To" Organic Gardening: PEST MANAGEMENT, HELPFUL RESOURCES: PEST MANAGEMENT, HELPFUL RESOURCES WEBSITE: DIY ORGANIC GARDEN Here are some resources you might find helpful: Gaining Grou...
PEST MANAGEMENT, HELPFUL RESOURCES
PEST MANAGEMENT, HELPFUL RESOURCES
WEBSITE: DIY ORGANIC GARDEN
Here are some resources you might find helpful:
(Canadian
Organic Growers, 2005)
Covers
the essential topics of organic farming, from soil building and planting to
weed and pest management, certification, and marketing strategies. Also
includes a one-year membership with the Canadian Organic Growers network.
By
Eliot Coleman
(Chelsea
Green Publishing, 1989)
The new generation market gardener's bible.
Although some details have been improved upon by others, this sets the
standard for meticulous, well-planned small-scale organic vegetable production
By Karl
Schwenke
(Storey
Publishing, 1991)
A good
introduction to the pitfalls and potential of making a living from the land.
(Northeast
Organic Network, 2002)
The NEON project gathered 12 experienced organic vegetable
farmers, put them in a room and produced this stunning chart outlining
real-life, practical 4- and 5-year crop rotation sequences with multiple
variations. A real head-scratcher, in the best possible way. (free
download, . PDF format)This is a good one to look at.
(NOFA
Organic Principles and Practices Series, 2000)
Short and sweet. A useful summary targeted at
diversified vegetable growers in the Northeast.
(NCAT/ATTRA,
2003)
A
bulletin discussing the basics of weed ecology, cropping system design to
minimize weed pressure and alternative weed management methods such as
flameweeding and weeder geese.
Edited
by Jill Jesiolowski Cebenko and Deborah Martin
(Rodale
Press, 2001)
A handy all-in-one pest and beneficial species
identification book, with excellent full-color drawings, life-cycle notes and
prevention and control recommendations.
Includes
many valuable short publications on specific disease management issues,
including "Organic Control of White Mold on Soybeans," "Notes on
Compost Teas," "Use of Baking Soda as a Fungicide," "Downy
Mildew Control in Cucurbits," and "Organic Alternatives for Late
Blight Control on Potatoes." A longer, more general ATTRA publication is
their resource on Biointensive Integrated Pest Management.
A
comprehensive guide to biocontrol and IPM, offering individual pages on over
100 natural enemies of insect, disease and weed pests. (free online resource)
By
Miguel A. Altieri and Clara I. Nicholls with Marlene A. Fritz
(Sustainable
Agriculture Network, 2005)
Contains a number of strategies for controlling
pest insect populations through the management of beneficial predator
populations, and stresses increasing above- and below-ground diversity,
enhancing plants' natural defenses, and managing soil as means to this endWednesday, April 17, 2013
Pest Management Part 2
Pest Management part 2, TSP part 11
WEBSITE: DIY ORGANIC GARDENING
Well balanced/managed soils and healthy crops can stand up
to some pest pressure.
In part one we spoke of having flowering plants to attract
beneficial insects. We also need to
plant the grounds of the land with perennial type of flowers the will start
flowering as soon as possible in the region we live in and will continue all
year or until first frost.
Make a chart of the flowering, trees, shrubs and flowers you
have in the immediate area of your garden.
You will need name of flowering plant, when it starts to flower and when
the flowers cease. Once the chart is done
you can see the holes you need to fill in to complete the flowering cycle of
your garden/farm. People living on 5
acres or more will use the flowering vegetation directly connected to their
property. Those of use that live in
Urban or City areas will consider the flowering vegetation within one to two
block radius of our garden. If you have
neighbors putting in gardens then consider moving your parameter closer to your
garden as your neighbor may get more benefit from the flowering shrubs in their
back yard than you will. In Urban/City
area it is a guessing game. Do the best
you can to put the beneficial plants in your own yard, maybe even your neighbor
wouldn’t mind if you cultivate an area of their yard if you promise to keep
weeded etc.
Example chart. On charts page of DIY Organic Garden
Find innovative ways to solve the
situations. Washington growers Eric and Deanna Strandberg transitioned their 400
acres of apple and pear orchards to organic in part because they noticed that
the conventional way of dealing with pests by spraying often just created more
pest problems, requiring more spraying. Organic pest management, in contrast,
seeks to protect beneficial organisms for the services they can provide.
In their
first transition year, Eric asked neighboring householders with fruit trees if
he could put crumpled up newspapers in the crotches of their trees to catch
earwigs, which feed on the eggs of the pear psylla, the worst pear pest
worldwide.” The earwigs ue the newspaper
during the day for a home and come out at night to eat the psylla..Case study by Rodale Institute.
“Organic farmers have long maintained that synthetic
fertilizers and pesticides make pest problems worse. Recent research has begun
to support those observations. Plant susceptibility to insect feeding has been
linked to high plant nitrogen levels, which in turn are related to the high
soluble fertilizer inputs typical of non-organic agriculture. Free amino acids,
again associated with high N applications, have also been reported to increase
pest attacks. Compost-fed plants have lower soluble nitrogen levels and are
thus less attractive to pests.” Rodale Institute.
“Systemic
acquired resistance: Do plants have immune systems? Some scientists think the answer is
yes. The term "systemic acquired resistance" refers to physiological
changes that occur in plants in response to initial insect feeding or disease
infection. These changes can help the plants stop the infection or slow insect
reproduction rates. There's even evidence that crop plants under insect attack
emit volatile scent signals to protect themselves or to communicate with insect
enemies of the attackers.
Plant
immune responses may also increase crops' nutritional value.
Researchers in California have found that unsprayed
organic fruits produce higher levels of antioxidants—prized by
health-conscious consumers—in response to insect and pathogen attacks.” Rodale Institute
Biodiversity has proven to be the best pest protection. Creating environments for beneficals to live,
selecting crops appropriate to your area and staying away from synthetic pesticides
seems to work better all the way around.
“When
choosing insectary plants, consider these criteria:
• Select plants for their attractiveness to beneficial
insects
• Choose plants with an early and long bloom period
• Select plants with low potential to host crop viruses or
attract pest species
• Choose plants with low potential to become weeds
• Consider low seed cost and easy establishment
Many
members of the Umbelliferae (coriander, dill, Queen Anne's lace), Compositae
(goldenrod, yarrow, sunflower), Brassicaceae (sweet alyssum, wild mustard) and
Leguminosae (sweet clover, alfalfa) plant families offer good floral resources
for beneficial insects.
Among California vegetable growers, a popular insectary plant mixture is
sweet alyssum, coriander, buckwheat and a cereal grain. (The cereal acts as a
windbreak and as a host for alternate prey of the beneficials.) “ Rodale
institute
Tuesday, April 16, 2013
"How To" Organic Gardening: PEST MANAGEMENT, PART ONE
"How To" Organic Gardening: PEST MANAGEMENT, PART ONE: Pest Management part 1, TSP part 10 WEB SITE: DIY ORGANIC GARDEN Pest management in Organic Systems requires a leap of faith. ...
PEST MANAGEMENT, PART ONE
Pest Management part 1, TSP part 10
WEB SITE: DIY ORGANIC GARDEN
Pest management in Organic Systems
requires a leap of faith. Again, it is
not surprising that soil health and conservation management are the main
ingredients to managing pests. Not all
bugs and organisms are problems with crops and the more a person enhances their
environment the more beneficial bugs and organisms move in to help the
gardener/farmer with pest control. Even
chemical herbicides will not totally eliminate the destruction of enemies to
your money crop.
Consider nature without the intervention of man. The prairie grasses, grains and fruit tress fared well in the world before man started manipulating the environment for
his own needs. Organic methods simply
advocate a return to nature; mimicking a natural environment for the benefit of
your crop and in turn creates an environment that helps greenhouse gases,
nutrition, pest management and the pocket book. It is a
Win Win.
One of the easiest ways to start off the process is to add
winter cover crops to your garden. These
crops nourish your garden/fields, and can create over winter habitat for
beneficial insects and animals.
As with weed management, identifying the pest is the first
step. Once you have identified the pest (destructive bug),
identify it’s enemy (beneficial insect) and what the habitat is of the
beneficial insect. Add the beneficial
habitat and watch for the results.
Many parts of the nation have aphid problems. If you do, then identify the predator that eats them. One such predator is the
lady bug beetle. You can buy a source of
lady bugs or encourage them to stay year after year by creating habitat for
them to stay in. Ladybugs like woody
areas, sticks, tall stands of grass or maybe that winter rye you just planted
for a cover crop. The tall ornamental
grasses, instead of cutting them back for the winter leave them alone to create
a safe haven for your over wintering bugs.
Lacewing are similar to lady bugs in what they devour and
over winter in similar ways. Lacewings like Asters, cosmos, sunflowers,
flowering dill and cilantro. Lacewings
also dine on aphids and other small larva.
Insects like ladybug and lacewings enjoy a snack of pollen related
flowers that are small, flowers with small to no petal area with large pollen
areas like the sunflower.
Wasps are another great garden guest. The parasitic wasp will lay their eggs in
larva and insects. The eggs hatch and
eat the larva from the inside out. If
you can keep a mud available to the mud dauber wasp they catch insects to feed
to their young. Other wasp types like the small flowers.
Colorado State
University, extension, beneficialinsects and other arthrodos.
Smaller flowers such as the alysum attract smaller insects
such as syrphid flies to pollinate crops and are planted in rows around
lettuces to help control aphids see cover crop alyssum.
In the picture are 3 rows of flowers to every 20 rows of lettuce. Syrphid flies plant one or two eggs per
plant, so they inoculate a large field of lettuce with aphid eating helpers.
Greater diversity of a complex landscape, higher percent of
woody or herbaceious plants support a greater number of spiders…says carol
O’meara of Colorado State University
Wheat fields in Germany
with mulch created a habitat for spiders which reduced the cereal aphid
population by 25%.
Spider are a great advantage to your crops and you can also change pest behavior, called spider caused
abandonment, which causes cucumber beetles, Japanese beetles, moth and
butterfly larva, leaf hoppers, plant hoppers to abandon that plant if they
detect spiders. Spiders kill more
insects than then consume.
You will have more pests in un managed weedy areas but
managed hedge rows and native perennials will inhabit more beneficial insects.
Native annual and native perennial are more than likely to host beneficial
insects where un managed weeds may be invasive weeds that attract pests.
See it in action on Pinterest.
Here I am creating a pictorial of plants and their benefits and how farmers are incorporating these plants into their crops or creating hedge rows to harbor the beneficials
There are tools available to predict flowering periods of
native insectary plants in Missouri
Do a search on (State) native insectary plants for your
state.
Pest management will continue in Part Two.
Monday, April 15, 2013
"How To" Organic Gardening: WEED CONTROL, PART 2, TSP PART 9
"How To" Organic Gardening: WEED CONTROL, PART 2, TSP PART 9: WEED MANAGEMENT, TSP PART 9, WEED CONTROL PART 2 WEBSITE: DIY ORGANIC GARDEN Pre-emergent cultivation/ blind cultivation. ...
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